Avg: 3.1 from 18 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 660 ft (200 m), 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||A. Cobertaldo and L. Pezzoti 1 August 1939|
|Page Views:||2,230 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Brian in SLC on Jan 16, 2012 · Updates|
|Admins:||Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath|
Can be crowded. Sometimes very crowded.
The route starts on the left side of an open trough (on the left side of the little pinnacle), just right of the south rib. Climb up and left, staying just right of the ridge crest for the first pitch (~25m) and the second pitch (~40m).
The third pitch climbs up to the crest of the rib, then, jogs right through a slanted chimney, then, breaks back left to the ridge crest to a belay (~45m).
Fourth pitch climbs up on large features to a ledge which wraps around to the southwest.
Fifth pitch climbs back to the right, though the nifty slot, to a belay at the base of the obvious left-facing corner crack (~40m).
Pitch 6: climb up the crack (~25m). This is the crux pitch at around 5.7 or so in difficulty. A couple of bolts protect this pitch. Belay from the very large, iron fixed piece (viewable from the parking lot ha ha) where the summit register can also be found. An easier escape option around to the right avoids the steep crack keeping the route at a more modest grade of 5.5/5.6.
Great 360 degree views from the top.
Follow the standard normal summit route back down, passing through trenches, climbing down old iron ladders, and, marveling at the effort required to hang onto this hunk of rock in WWI. The trail is marked in red. Well travelled, and, leads back to the main road. Descent takes from 45 minutes to an hour.
The very prominent south rib on the left side skyline of the peak when viewed from the pass.
From the large boulder and parking spot, take the well worn trail leading towards the southeast face. Follow the trail around to the left to the base of the south arête.
The hike to the start of the route should take around 20 minutes.
An alternate and more interesting approach (requires a flashlight or headlamp) is to take the Goiginger Gallery tunnel which was built by the Austrian army during WWI. To do that take the main path along the base from the Forte Tre Sassi parking area and then take the second path on the right uphill till you find the tunnel entrance. Take the tunnel almost as far as it goes till you exit a little downhill from the base of the climb.