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Routes in Sunset Boulevard

Type: Boulder
FA: None yet
Page Views: 337 total, 5/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Jan 16, 2012
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A mere three moves longer than the stand-start, but stupidly burl. Save the skin, wait for good friction. Otherwise, pull hard off the starting hole, snag the two-finger pocket, then choose which sloping crimps to use. Top-out isn't too technical, just physical.

Location

Just around the corner from Fritz Bulge. Starts in a hole at the left-bottom of the steep overhang.

Protection

Pad.

Photos

Duke Lettieri
Santa Barbara, CA
  V8
Duke Lettieri   Santa Barbara, CA
  V8
youtu.be/TgLpBVP-QCI Dec 3, 2016
Pablo Hammack  
  V9
Soft 9. Harder then "Dancing Outlaw". Sep 5, 2016
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
As far as I know. Claim it, man. Good work! I know a guy who cleaned it and tried it a few years ago and he was stupid strong, but I can't remember if he did it or not. If a "secret ascentionist" comes out of the woodwork, so be it. Jun 18, 2012
Trevor V.
Santa Barbara, Ca
  V9
Trevor V.   Santa Barbara, Ca
  V9
Traversing to the right holds seemed a bit easier, but I liked the huge move going straight up so I did it that way. My grade reflects that, Fred Nicole Proj Direct, haha. Anyways am I the only accent known? Jun 17, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Yeah, that works too. For some reason, traversing in to it made the sequence out right feel easier. Either way, I kinda lost skin and psyche so climbed elsewhere. Now that it's been sent, I'd love to go back, however, and see how things work. Jun 17, 2012
Trevor V.
Santa Barbara, Ca
  V9
Trevor V.   Santa Barbara, Ca
  V9
What about direct? Meaning just going up from the rail and small gastonish thing instead of moving to the right, like in the photo. Its a low angle dyno. Jun 11, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
I agree: that pocket used to be worse, and now it is a large and sandy pit. Fred Nicole would scoff indeed. The top is still hard, but not as hard as it might have been I suppose. Jan 18, 2012
It should be noted that the two-finger pocket was seriously enhanced at some point a few years ago. It was originally a first pad two-finger undercling pocket and I cringe at the thought of pulling into it from the start move, hence the Fred Nicole moniker. Nowadays, it's not even remotely close to what it was back then. Actually, it's an insult to Fred Nicole now. Jan 18, 2012