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Routes in Amateur Hour Crag

1,2,3 Stop T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amateur Hour T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Back In The Shadow Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack to Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Farm Team S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Breathing Craggin' S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Micro Classic S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Micro Slab S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Microcephaly S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Minarete T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Post-Op Therapy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Senior Saga S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Slabs Of Bakin' S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonder Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Jim Suriano Late 70's
Page Views: 529 total, 7/month
Shared By: JMayhew on Jan 16, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Climb past a bolt along right-diagonalling dirty steps to a small overhang. (The new Direct Start is better.) The original route steps right under the overhang then up along a thin crack to right side of small ledge with a bolt. Up and right to another bolt, then straight up into a crack that leads to the top.

5.9R var. : At the small overhang, move up and left to nice crack leading to left side of the small ledge. Continue up runout face to engage left leaning crack then wander to top. (SG, JJ, 1982)

"Running Man" direct start (5.8) Start on right side of face in a wide crack by tree. Diagonal left past bolt to tiny gear placements, then straight up steep face past another bolt to intersect A.H. just after "small overhang." (Derek Anderson, Aaron Marks 2012)

Location

This right-diagonalling route starts to the right of the "crack to chimney" line seen from the parking lot.

Descent: Either hike off right or scramble to tree at top of "crack to chimney" route and rig a quick belay down 15 feet to the 2-bolt anchor for "1,2,3 Stop", to climber's left of the chimney. 30M rap.

Protection

Small to medium cams and stoppers.
We pulled (easily) the 5 original 1/4" bolts and replaced 3, digging out extra gear placements. It's still a bit spicy for a 5.7 lead.

Take some larger gear if doing the variation.

Photos

Did the Grossman Variation today and found it to be pretty reasonable in the run out sections. The 5.9 part was well protected. Jim thought there was some rock that was dubious on the run out section to the horizontal. Nov 1, 2012