Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: James Stover, Doug Mckee, Dustin Hoffman
Page Views: 1,912 total · 23/month
Shared By: Airbiscuit on Jan 16, 2012
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a classic route for the Monument, maybe not "Get A Life" but definitely in the top tier of Momument 5.11s. Each pitch has it's own distinct character. It has lots of quality and plenty of desert flavor to keep things exciting.  It climbs like a remote tower a stone's throw from town.

P1. Start immediately right of a right-facing corner in the lower left side of the huge cleft. Climb on thin gear and thought provoking 5.9 to the sandy ledge. Work you way up & around some large loose plates (5.6) to the nice splitter above and on to a nice ledge. 5.10-, +/- 100'.

P2. From this belay, work your way horizontally to the right on the bedding seam for 30' and then fire up the thin corner above. Watching your rope managment, climb this cruxy R rated 12' (5.11 b/c) to some easy face climbing and on to the beautiful, thin hands corner that marks the middle of this route. 5.11+, +/-120'.

P3. This is another great pitch with an exposed finish! Climb a sweet corner above the belay till making a careful mantle to the ledge at the base of the overhanging maw. Wiggle, worm, & fight up this difficult OW on great stone. Exciting and strenous. 5.11, +/-60'.

Descend with one seventy meter making three rappels to the ground.

Location

10 minutes past the Irishman's Temple, this route climbs the huge cleft in the middle of the Skin Industries Wall. It is 100' to the looker's left of Skin Industies.

Protection

Doubles from a #0 (purple) Metolius to #4 C4, 1 #5 C4, triples in the #2 (yellow) Metolius to #2 Camalots. Bring a small selection of nuts, lots of full length runners, and a 70 meter rope.

Photos

dmckee
 
dmckee  
 
Real sweet line on mostly great rock! Feb 17, 2012