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Torre Grande di Falzarego West Face (Lussato Route)

5.5 PG13, Trad, Alpine, 470 ft (142 m), 4 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
International > Europe > Italy > Dolomites > Lagazuoi , Fani… > Falzarego pass > Torre Grande di Falza…

Description

A perfect second climb after doing the Comici on the Piccola. Head (west) down the gully after the rappel from the Piccola until you get to a big boulder in the scree. Find the red paint and head up the Torre Grande for 3 or 4 fun pitches.

Protection

Lots of fixed or cemented pins.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lussato. Rodger Raubach picture
[Hide Photo] Lussato. Rodger Raubach picture
Torre Grande de Falzarego; West Face.
[Hide Photo] Torre Grande de Falzarego; West Face.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, ID
  5.5 PG13
[Hide Comment] Doing these two routes (the Torre Grande di Falzarego - West Face and the Torre Piccola di Falzarego - South Arete) in an afternoon from Cortina is a perfect outing. Both are reasonable solos. I've done the Comici both ways. If you solo, take a light 150' 7mm cord for the rap off of Piccola. If you want to risk it - you probably can catch a rappel from other parties and not take a rope (sort of like coming off the Grand Teton). The Torre Grande is downclimable to the north, then west. There are two rap stations if wanted. Jan 16, 2012
Rodger Raubach
Billings, MT
[Hide Comment] At least 2 routes exist on the West Face of the Grosser Falzaregoturm, and both are rated as UIAA Gr. IV climbs. Since the original poster here mentioned the red arrow marking, I would conclude he did the "Alpini Route." The Lussato Route close to the chasm between towers is not marked. Sep 20, 2013