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Routes in Piz Ciavazes

"Bergfuehrerweg"/Route of the Guides. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Abram Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Micheluzzi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buhl Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little Micheluzzi." T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papa Giovanni Paolo II S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rampenfuehre / "Ramp" Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roberta83 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Schubert (Friendship Route) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Irma T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Via Rossi - Tomasi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zeni Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 940 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bruno Rossi and Augustus Tomasi 2 September, 1945
Page Views: 872 total · 11/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Jan 15, 2012 with updates from Oscar Edge
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

One of the better, more moderate routes on the Piz Ciavazes. Eight pitches.

The route climbs quickly, with straightforward route finding, good rock, and, nice, steep positions.

From the base of the obvious gully, climb up on the left side of the face, while staying to the right of the big corner/gully.

Most pitches are in the 30 to 45m range for length. A pin or more will affirm that one is on route. The more the pins, the more exposed and difficult the climbing.

First pitch is a lower angle scramble staying mostly just slightly left to a large stance with a fixed pin belay (as they all are). Second pitch goes up right, over a little bulge, then up a steeper ramp to a belay stance.

Third pitch continues up the ramp, then, traverses left to a belay at the base of a face. Fourth pitch climbs up the face. Fifth pitch, one of the more difficult on the route, continues up into a corner, which is topped out to the left. Sixth pitch angles up left finishing with a longer easy traverse out left to a stance below a large roof.

Seventh pitch traverses on steep, kind of exact terrain, to the base of a steep chimney. Neat pitch!

Last pitch climbs up on real steep rock, with thankfully large holds. Continue up the chimney, exit out onto the lower angle face and keep an eye peeled for a belay anchor. Easy scramble to the trail from this finish.

Descent:

Most folks don’t continue above the Chamois Terrace. Follow this Gamsband trail to the west towards the Sella Towers. Aim for the gully between the Second Sella Tower and the Piz Ciavazes and zig zag down with mostly easy scrambing and a couple of short down climbs. If it gets too spicy, there’s a couple of spots where glued-in rings are available for short rappels (which may be quicker than trying to figure out where to down climb).

Walk the trail back to the car park.

Location

This route is located on the left side of the Piz Ciavazes face. Locate a large gully, just right of the obvious Via Italia route.

Left of the Shubert and Big Micheluzzi routes.
On the face to the right of the gully, this is the left-most route. Starting at/near the same place is the Via Delle Guide route (Gross ’63) which climbs up and right of the Via Rossi – Tomasi.

Park as for any of the routes on the face (nearer to Sella Pass on the level with the south face of Piz Ciavezes). Good, easy to follow trails lead to the start of the route in around 15 minutes.

Protection

A single 50m rope, a small set of nuts and cams, quickdraws and a few shoulder length slings should be plenty. Some fixed gear, enough to help stay on route.

Belays all seem to end in a handy glued in single piton with a ring spray painted red.
The UIAA rating of this climb is Gr. IV+. Other climbs I've done at this level seem to be a pretty stout and old school "5.6," which is usually called 5.7 these days. There are at least 2 other climbs at this (UIAA Gr. IV+) level on Piz Ciavazes: Kleine Micheluzzi, and the "Rampenfuehre." Nov 26, 2013
This route is #1 on my 2014 Dolomites "hit list." The wall is very attractive and has a reasonable approach and descent for a starter/introduction to Piz Ciavazes climbing. Dec 3, 2013
Rick Ziegler
  5.7
Rick Ziegler  
  5.7
Good choice for possible bad weather or as a first route in the Dolomites.
Easy to solo pitch 1. Pitch 2 and 3 link with a 70m rope. Good climbing on the upper pitches. Jun 12, 2014

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