All Locations > International > Europe > Italy > Dolomites > Sella Group > Passo Sella Area > Piz Ciavazes
Via Rossi - Tomasi
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 940 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Bruno Rossi and Augustus Tomasi 2 September, 1945|
|Page Views:||719 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Brian in SLC on Jan 15, 2012|
|Admins:||Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath|
DescriptionOne of the better, more moderate routes on the Piz Ciavazes. Eight pitches.
The route climbs quickly, with straightforward route finding, good rock, and, nice, steep positions.
From the base of the obvious gully, climb up on the left side of the face, while staying to the right of the big corner/gully.
Most pitches are in the 30 to 45m range for length. A pin or more will affirm that one is on route. The more the pins, the more exposed and difficult the climbing.
First pitch is a lower angle scramble staying mostly just slightly left to a large stance with a fixed pin belay (as they all are). Second pitch goes up right, over a little bulge, then up a steeper ramp to a belay stance.
Third pitch continues up the ramp, then, traverses left to a belay at the base of a face. Fourth pitch climbs up the face. Fifth pitch, one of the more difficult on the route, continues up into a corner, which is topped out to the left. Sixth pitch angles up left finishing with a longer easy traverse out left to a stance below a large roof.
Seventh pitch traverses on steep, kind of exact terrain, to the base of a steep chimney. Neat pitch!
Last pitch climbs up on real steep rock, with thankfully large holds. Continue up the chimney, exit out onto the lower angle face and keep an eye peeled for a belay anchor. Easy scramble to the trail from this finish.
Most folks dont continue above the Chamois Terrace. Follow this Gamsband trail to the west towards the Sella Towers. Aim for the gully between the Second Sella Tower and the Piz Ciavazes and zig zag down with mostly easy scrambing and a couple of short down climbs. If it gets too spicy, theres a couple of spots where glued-in rings are available for short rappels (which may be quicker than trying to figure out where to down climb).
Walk the trail back to the car park.
LocationThis route is located on the left side of the Piz Ciavazes face. Locate a large gully, just right of the obvious Via Italia route.
Left of the Shubert and Big Micheluzzi routes.
On the face to the right of the gully, this is the left-most route. Starting at/near the same place is the Via Delle Guide route (Gross 63) which climbs up and right of the Via Rossi Tomasi.
Park as for any of the routes on the face (nearer to Sella Pass on the level with the south face of Piz Ciavezes). Good, easy to follow trails lead to the start of the route in around 15 minutes.