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Routes in Gangsta' Ledge

A Country Mile T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Father Roy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Giants of Science S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lucky Town S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rattlesnake Speedway S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Takeda Route T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Teardrops on the City S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tiny Giant S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Pete Takeda
Page Views: 101 total · 1/month
Shared By: Colby Wayment on Jan 14, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Perhaps the best 5.10 at Schoolroom. I'm not sure if Pete ever named this thing, but for someone who had never been to Schoolroom before (or after?), he sure picked out a gem.

Climb easy ground up to the finger crack, then follow the finger crack to the first glue-in bolt. A 15 foot section of face past another glue-in on clean stone takes you up to the seam. End at the glue-in anchor. The crack leading to the bolts takes some good TCUs and small nuts and the seam up top takes a decent nut and a cam.

Location

The last route you'll see before reaching the second (southern) cable traverse. It follows a lightning bolt shaped crack and is the only route on Schoolroom with glue-in eye bolts. Route 38 in the Gangsta Ledge beta photo.

Protection

Cams from .5 inches to 1.75 inches. Nuts and a handful of draws. For the start, either reach up and clip the first bolt of Rattlesnake Speedway or protect with some hand-sized cams.

Photos

nicojah Parco
Bogotá Colombia
 
nicojah Parco   Bogotá Colombia
 
This is a hidden gem still not listed in the Ogden guidebook. Takes all sorts of pro, and the glue-ins are well placed! Good find! Mar 26, 2015

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