Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Pete Takeda
Page Views: 910 total · 6/month
Shared By: Colby Wayment on Jan 14, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Perhaps the best 5.10 at Schoolroom. I'm not sure if Pete ever named this thing, but for someone who had never been to Schoolroom before (or after?), he sure picked out a gem.

Climb easy ground up to the finger crack, then follow the finger crack to the first glue-in bolt. A 15 foot section of face past another glue-in on clean stone takes you up to the seam. End at the glue-in anchor. The crack leading to the bolts takes some good TCUs and small nuts and the seam up top takes a decent nut and a cam.

Location Suggest change

The last route you'll see before reaching the second (southern) cable traverse. It follows a lightning bolt shaped crack and is the only route on Schoolroom with glue-in eye bolts. Route 38 in the Gangsta Ledge beta photo.

Protection Suggest change

Cams from .5 inches to 1.75 inches. Nuts and a handful of draws. For the start, either reach up and clip the first bolt of Rattlesnake Speedway or protect with some hand-sized cams.

Photos

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