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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Northern Wasatch
> Ogden
> Schoolroom
> Asbury Park
> Gangsta' Ledge
Takeda Route
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 4
votes
Routes in Gangsta' Ledge
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A Country Mile T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Father Roy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Giants of Science S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lucky Town S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rattlesnake Speedway S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Takeda Route T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Teardrops on the City S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tiny Giant S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Pete Takeda |
| Page Views: | 877 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Colby Wayment on Jan 14, 2012 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Perhaps the best 5.10 at Schoolroom. I'm not sure if Pete ever named this thing, but for someone who had never been to Schoolroom before (or after?), he sure picked out a gem.
Climb easy ground up to the finger crack, then follow the finger crack to the first glue-in bolt. A 15 foot section of face past another glue-in on clean stone takes you up to the seam. End at the glue-in anchor. The crack leading to the bolts takes some good TCUs and small nuts and the seam up top takes a decent nut and a cam.
Climb easy ground up to the finger crack, then follow the finger crack to the first glue-in bolt. A 15 foot section of face past another glue-in on clean stone takes you up to the seam. End at the glue-in anchor. The crack leading to the bolts takes some good TCUs and small nuts and the seam up top takes a decent nut and a cam.
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