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Routes in The Dragon Area

Dragon Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dragon's Back T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easy Does It T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stem City T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wall of Khazad-dum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 292 total, 4/month
Shared By: Mark Maier on Jan 14, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

There are two start options. First, start with Dragon's Back. Second, more sporty, head to the right of the bulge at the ground and boulder out a 5.9 start. Protection may be poor without some tricks. Head up the buttress to the thin triple cracks to the right of the Dragon's Back crack. Most people use some combination of all three cracks to get up.

Protection

Protects with standard gear.

Photos

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Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Most direct line is starting below the slightly overhung wall...and you have 3 different options. The leftmost goes at about 5.9, pulling some V2 moves to get to a gear placement (.5 BD cam or so) and then moving up from there.

Option two is just to the right and is pretty much unprotected 5.10 climbing unless you can get in a small cam (purple C3...not sure if the purple master cam would go). After that placement, it's a big reach to some bomber holds.

Option three is the furthest right and is about 5.8ish, bouldering up past the block with the horn...careful with that block, it just doesn't seem like you really wanna yard on it. You can get some thin wires once at the stance above the block or just keep climbing to better gear. Oct 1, 2012