Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Ray Jardine and Kris Walker (May '75)
Page Views: 603 total · 7/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Jan 13, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is a nice left-facing corner in the vicinity of Peter Pan. It works as a great approach pitch to Peter Left.

After ascending the 3rd class on the approach to the West Buttress area, cut to the right and up ledges to the start of the corner.

The crux is a section where the corner leans to the left. Moderate lieback/undercling leads to a difficult finger jamming crux getting around the lip of this overhang. It's best to run it out a bit at the start of this section or you'll get bad rope drag for the rest of the pitch. Above the crux is a bit of tricky stemming protected by small wires and then some more liebacking on finger and thin-hand sized cracks.

The rap anchor is a sort of questionable flake with a couple manky slings around it. Def bring fresh webbing if you plan on only climbing this pitch. If you're continuing on to Peter Left, then climb up and left of this flake and scramble up some ledges to belay at the base of the big right-facing corner.

Protection

A double set of cams from fingers to hands and some small stoppers.

If you're linking this with Peter Left you will want to bring doubles of 3-4" cams and probably a 4.5" cam as well.

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