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Swamp Monkey
5.13b,
Sport, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 3 from 7
votes
FA: unknown
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Arrow Canyon
> Swamp Cave
Access Issue: Arrow Canyon Climbing Access is Sensitive!
Details
Some basic rules and good behavior will ensure continued climbing access in Arrow Canyon:
1) Do not leave fixed draws on climbs or fixed ropes anywhere in the canyon.
2) Do not develop new routes. Bolting in Arrow Canyon is illegal.
3) Do not climb within 25’ of petroglyphs. Note that these are often difficult to spot and extreme care should be undertaken. Several routes in the Entry Walls violate this rule and are slated to be removed in the near future. Do not climb these routes.
4) Do not cross private land when driving into Arrow Canyon. Follow directions closely.
5) In the event of an emergency or vehicle problems, do not contact private land owners - reach out to the appropriate authorities.
This area has had access trouble in the past. Fixed draws are not allowed.
The old way in used to cross private property, but the impacted landowner proposed a way to get here without crossing his land. Please follow the directions closely so as to avoid it. Also, if you get your car stuck, try everything possible to avoid going to his house for help.
Description
A blocky and steep beginning leads to the vertical headwall above. Share anchors with the right trending 11b.
Location
To the left of Swamp Thing, out the steep lefthand side of the swamp cave. To the right of the right trending 11b.
Protection
Salt Lake City
A right kneepad is extraordinarily helpful for the crux and given how much rubber is on those sections I'd venture to guess many before me have repeated it that same way.
I tightened all but the first hanger on this thing but unfortunately couldn't get the first one done with doing so as I was cleaning it. Please bring a wrench and tighten it up if you're the next person out trying it! Also 10 bolts but I used a super long (1.5 ft I believe) sling on the 5th draw to make it easier to clip from the jug/logical clipping position and the falls were also significantly safer this way, putting me below the roof but nowhere close to the ground. Feb 29, 2020