Type: Trad, Sport, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,155 total · 14/month
Shared By: Dan 60D5H411 on Jan 10, 2012
Admins: Jason Halladay

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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A stunning line that diagonals up and right across the south face of Sourloti. Expect consistent climbing with thought-provoking cruxes, good face sequences and even sections of stemming in long water grooves. All cruxes are well protected by Meteora standards but it would still be "unadvisable" to fall during certain traversing sections. Bolts counts below are from memory and should be taken with a grain of salt (or a swig of Ouzo)

P1(5.3): From the shared start at the base of the south face, traverse left and up across a band of exceptionally large cobbles. 1 bolt, 130 ft.

P2(5.9): Pull a small roof, angle up and right past a short crux. 4 bolts, 130 ft.

P3(5.10): Trend up and right towards a water groove, where the route merges with Linie des Fallenden Tropfens. Follow this groove (crux) up to a two-bolt belay. 4 bolts, 160 ft.

P4(5.9): Leave the groove, following an upward, rightward direction. 8 bolts, 110 ft.

P5(5.9+): Cross over Sophocles aiming for engaging stemming in a short, black groove. Before reaching the top of this groove, traverse 5 ft to the right for the proper belay. Awesome pitch! 5 bolts, 110 ft.

P6(5.6): Move right to a bolt and continue up easier ground. Although not too technical, the top of this pitch is very runout on vegetated cobbles. There are opportunities on this pitch to place a few nuts and a couple of natural threads. If you feel inclined to use the threads, be sure to bring extra cords...the existing tat is in need of replacement. 1 bolt, 150 ft.


Follow the Sourloti directions for the shared, south face start and east face rappel descent.


12 draws and additional long runners to alleviate rope drag, 2 ropes, optional set of medium/large nuts and cord for the last pitch.


Portland, OR
rpc   Portland, OR
wonderful line with some spectacular climbing & views (& a fun summit adds to the goodness)...supposedly an enterprising farmer once got a herd of sheep/goats? onto the summit plateau for a season of grazing in the sky :) Jan 24, 2012