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Routes in Emerald Lake & vicinity

Astro Turf T M4-5
Butterfingers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M4
Coconut Bliss M4-5
Dairy Lite M4
No. 1 Gully M4
No. 2 Gully M3-4
Squid, The WI5-6 M6-7
Steeplechase T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M4 Easy Snow
Tastee Freeze M4
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Type: Mixed, Alpine, 700 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Possibly B. Collett, Eric Zale, January 2012
Page Views: 772 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Jan 8, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route was really fun. There is a nice combination of turf and dry-tooling on it.

1) Cruise up the gut of the gully until a steep step is reached at which point you can step right to some good gear and a belay at around 45 meters below a steep corner, M3.

2) Head up the steep corner with some wide stemming and good gear. Belay at a tree below the snow covered bench, M3/4, 35m.

3) Cross the snow bench and head up loose ground to an obvious, left-leaning gully/chimney and climb its end on a mini-ridge. At this point, the route meets up with No. 1 Gully, M3, 80m.

4) Climb a short steep wall above the top of the gully and traverse right into a snow gully. Follow the gully to the trees at the top.

To descend, we followed the raps for No. 1 Gully as follows: From a tree at the top, a 55m rap down and climber's left past the belay for pitch 3 gets you to a slung block. A 60m rap straight down from the slung block gets you to a fixed nut on the right wall of a mini-gully. One last rap will have you back on the ground.

Location

Start above the snow finger labeled No. 2 in the Steeplechase beta
Steeplechase: approach... use 3rd snow finger from left. . You are heading for the steep corner in the back of the gully.

Protection

A couple of pins were nice as was a large hex. Other than that, take a standard rock rack.

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