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> Left Tower (AKA: The Cleaver Block)
Jack in the Box
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Left Tower (AKA: The Cleaver Block)
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Jack in the Box T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 80 ft |
| FA: | Gary Lee Hicks & Florian Walchak, Winter of mid-1970s |
| Page Views: | 117 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | Bill Lawry on Jan 7, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
Seasonal Raptor Closure March 1- August 15
For details and up to date info visit: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
fs.usda.gov/alerts/cibola/a…
For details and up to date info visit: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
fs.usda.gov/alerts/cibola/a…
Description
The initial ~vertical crack has good pro which climbs like the nice easy music and suspenseful clicky sound from the winding lever ... solid steady thoughtful work. Be aware there is a semi-detached chunk of rock in this section, about the volume of a soccer ball.
The first ascent party, Gary Lee Hicks and Florian Walchak, then followed the crack up & left to finish up the wide vertical crack: steep and smooth-ish rock with increasing risk of pendulum.
Alternatively, after the vertical portion, we exited up and right where the crack turns left. That way, listen for the loud 'n scare-y "boing" while facing an alarming lack of crimpers / knobs, increasing difficuilty for a bit, and no more pro.
Descend via modern rap bolts.
The first ascent party, Gary Lee Hicks and Florian Walchak, then followed the crack up & left to finish up the wide vertical crack: steep and smooth-ish rock with increasing risk of pendulum.
Alternatively, after the vertical portion, we exited up and right where the crack turns left. That way, listen for the loud 'n scare-y "boing" while facing an alarming lack of crimpers / knobs, increasing difficuilty for a bit, and no more pro.
Descend via modern rap bolts.
![From the FA, [[107429566]] follows the obvious candy-cane crack until escaping up the wide vertical crack. An alternative is to escape up and right before the main crack turns left.](https://cdn-files.apstatic.com/climb/110733048_smallMed_1494352610.jpg)
This "Left Tower" as it is called here was 1st done by Florian Walchak and myself sometime in winter in the mid 1970-s. We followed the crack left where the photo shows a red line going right. We finished up the wide vertical crack after a short traverse from the red line marking Jack in the Box going right.
It's quite probable that we placed quarter inch bolts to rap off. As I remember none of us started using 3/8 inch bolts until the 1980-s.
Florian dropped one of his BLUE Dachstein mittens into a crack along the south side of this formation and if only we had had a fishing pole and a hook we might have retrieved it ! I wonder if anyone has ever found it or has seen it inside the 4 or 5 inch crack it has been residing in for the past 40 yr-s !!! LOL
I would be curious to know what you mean by "modern rap anchors". Thanks Buddy Jul 10, 2015
New Mexico
By "modern rap bolts" I mean something other than what I was afraid we'd find up there such as a corroded version of the quarter-inch kind you mentioned - no offense intended - or find nothing.
The current bolts / hangers are fat and shine-y.
I'm hesitant to ask about the name "Naldo" - hopefully it's that Brazilian, versatile, two-footed, good-looking central defender. ;-) Jul 10, 2015