Type: Trad, Alpine, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Gary Lee Hicks & Florian Walchak, Winter of mid-1970s
Page Views: 403 total · 4/month
Shared By: Bill Lawry on Jan 7, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico Requirements - Updated Nov. 16, 2020 Details

Description

The initial ~vertical crack has good pro which climbs like the nice easy music and suspenseful clicky sound from the winding lever ... solid steady thoughtful work. Be aware there is a semi-detached chunk of rock in this section, about the volume of a soccer ball.

The first ascent party, Gary Lee Hicks and Florian Walchak, then followed the crack up & left to finish up the wide vertical crack: steep and smooth-ish rock with increasing risk of pendulum.

Alternatively, after the vertical portion, we exited up and right where the crack turns left. That way, listen for the loud 'n scare-y "boing" while facing an alarming lack of crimpers / knobs, increasing difficuilty for a bit, and no more pro.

Descend via modern rap bolts.

Location

Set a belay on the small table-top ledge at the SE corner of the tower - protect belayer from upward pull into roof. Perhaps better is to start at the base of the SW face of the tower directly below the route.

Protection

For the way we did it: Half inch to two inch wired stoppers and cams. Lasso the horn nearer the bottom with a long runner? Nearer the upper part of the vertical crack, a half inch cam or similar offset cam might be nice.

Photos