Type: Aid, 30 ft
FA: Sky Beck
Page Views: 362 total · 4/month
Shared By: Colby Wayment on Jan 5, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This is a nice short aid route with an easy approach. There aren't many thin cracks in Ogden that you cannot otherwise free climb. Another feature of this aid climb that makes it unique for the area is that aid gear (pins, heads, and hooks) beyond regular trad gear is required.

The crux is probably where the crack peters out and you make the transition left (above the final fixed RURP) to the anchors of Sesame Street.

There are bolted routes on either side of this aid seam, which can effect the rating. If you avoid clipping any bolts on your way to the chains then the route will be A2. If you clip the bolts on Sesame Street after getting to the beak, head, or RURP then the route will be A1 (much safer and you avoid making the tricky final moves, so technically easier as well). The third option, clipping the bolt up and right of the RURP on the slab, will keep you safer but preserve the technical challenge if if you hook your way up under Sesame Street rather than clip Sesame Street's bolts (A1+).

Location

Park at the waterfall pullout. Cross the bridge and walk the trail east that runs along the river. The first bolted routes you will notice that go up both sides of a 25 foot overhanging alcove right next to the trail is where this route is located. The Chopper climbs just to the right of the inside corner between Sesame Street and Aid Crisis.

Protection

It has almost gone clean and probably could if you really want to try. But why limit yourself to that. There is value in trying to go clean on popular long routes on sandstone or granite, but this is 30 feet of backwoods quartzite, thus I believe it is a good candidate for hammer practice. I think quartzite of this hardness would be very resistant to pin scarring.

bring a small assortment of small trad gear. camhooks work. a skyhook helps. a couple knifeblades. if you want practice, you could bring lost arrows, though clean gear works where the lost arrows would go.

there is a fixed beak, copperhead, and RURP 2/3 the way up. the route can only go clean if those are there, otherwise you'll need a couple RURPS or beaks.

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