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De Gaulle Syndrome

5.12+, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 12 votes
FA: Tod Anderson & Rick Thompson, 2003
Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > Spiney Ridge

Description

This is a short bouldery route, that last route on the right end of Spiney Ridge. The crux is the first 3 bolts of the climb, an extended boulder problem that feels about like a V4/5. After the crux, a nice rest sets you up for some easier climbing to a slightly awkward move into the v groove above.

Location

This is the last route on Spiney Ridge.

Protection

8 bolts + anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Brandon at the crux move.
[Hide Photo] Brandon at the crux move.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
 
[Hide Comment] More fun than first meets the eye.

FA: Tod Anderson & Rick Thompson, 2003. Feb 24, 2012
slim

  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] Pretty cool route, definitely better than it looks. Probably best to just stick clip the 2nd bolt, as the rock down low is kind of chippy. Fairly difficult bouldery crux at the start - I thought it felt WAY harder than Quoting Yoda (to the left, which the Bob D. guide gives 12b). It requires a combination of strength and positioning. There are some footholds, but I found them hard to use. The sidepull at the crux is one of those that you keep fondling, but it never feels as good as you think it should. I never felt like I mastered it - I just kind of flubbed my way through it.

Get a good rest after the crux - the section above into the v-slot is more taxing than it appears.... Dec 22, 2012
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Helen ripped off the right hand crimp in the middle of the crux (with her 95lbs of crushing) yesterday. Probably a bit harder now that you have to reach all the way to the sidepull/undercling out left from the lower holds and then into the shallow two-finger with the other hand. Oct 15, 2013
ROCKMAN2
Nederland, CO
  5.12+
[Hide Comment] In its current state, the crux felt much harder than anything on any other 5.12 at Shelf. I've climbed many 5.13s in far fewer tries. This took me about 15 tries with good conditions/skin/rest. The crux felt about V7 (at 5'9"). Rowdy. Way harder than Weapons of Mass Arousal. 12+ at least.... The awesome 11- climbing above the crux is classic. Worth a try, especially for boulderers. Might be easy for taller people that can use lower feet. Nov 11, 2018
Craig Faulhaber
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] I second Rockman's post. Harder moves for me than Cure for the Common Crimp, though it is basically a boulder problem with fun 11 climbing after. Dec 5, 2020