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Routes in Loder Peak

Coire Dubh Integrale T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 Easy Snow
Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, 2000 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,925 total, 68/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Jan 3, 2012
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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13 Opinions

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Description


Approach: 50 minutes
Climb: 3 - 6 hours
Descent: 1.5 - 2.5 hours
Car-to-Car: 5 - 11 hours
Sun: little to none in winter


An ultra classic mini-alpine route only 45 minutes from calgary. This route is an awesome day out without to much commitment. It has real ice, snow, and rock climbing, tags a summit (Loder Peak), is never to hard, the rock quality is generally good and the decent isn't to bad. However, depending on snow, the rock pitch can be easy or epic.

Location

From Calgary, take the Seebee exit like you're going to Yam and turn left on the 1A. Parking is the same for Kid Goat & Nanny Goat. Park in a paved lot on the South side of the Highway 1.7 KM East of Continental Lime Plant and right across from the dump. Don't drive up or park on the dump road as you'll probably get towed.

Walk North across the 1A and up the dump road for about 100m to a log section of fence. Follow the well established climbers trail along the East side of the dump right at the fencing. Turn the NE corner of the dump and keep following the fence. Take the second offshoot trail (NOT the wide ATV looking trail) and head along a mostly flat trail that parallels the mountains until you are directly below the route and can see the ice. Head uphill along the climbers left-hand side of the slope to where the ice starts.

Protection

6+ ice screws, Cams to 2", & small to medium nuts. Optional: tri-cams are usefull for pockets, maybe some pins.
I did this route in January 2014. I actually thought it was a HUGE BLAST, probably the most fun route in the entire week of climbing in Canada. It had a fun approach (more fun when you go up the wrong drainage first, then a fun bushwhack into the correct one); moderate ice, which we soloed; then some outstanding mixed/rock climbing.

We did the first crux pitch, and belayed before an immediate wandering second pitch. Then soloed a lot of easy terrain (well shown in the Beta Pics). We then looked for the best line, and chose the area in and to the left of the HUGE corner. The first pitch after the long solo was quite steep and the initial section did not have a lot (any) pro until reaching the corner, which had a very thin crack for dry tooling and placing small gear, midway through the first pitch there is an exciting leftward traverse again with not a lot of gear, which deposits you on the face to the left of the main corner and sets you up perfectly to head straight up. We did two or three more pitches to the top.

We brought ice gear (some screws, but never placed any) and a moderate rock rack (probably #1 and #2 C3, #0.3-#2 C4, 6 nuts, 3 or 4 pins). We did end up placing pins on several occasions simply. We did not see any bolts (but they are indicated on the Beta Pic).

With our late start, short January days, and wrong initial approach we topped out the technical section at sunset and it was about 2 hrs to get back to the road staying perfectly on the ridge for the entire descent.

Again, this route was OUTSTANDING and I highly recommend it. Dec 4, 2014