Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,629 total · 30/month
Shared By: Morrismc on Jan 2, 2012 with improvements by Russ B
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

This is the thin left leaning crack to the left of the Triple Cracks. The start is the hardest part of the route.

At the top of the large 5.7 flake careful to avoid loose looking sloping hold on the left. The hold will be obvious and look really good but weight it with caution.

Also just before gaining the 5.7 flake be careful of fall potential onto the large block on your left.

Protection

Nuts and Small cams for the lower section. Larger gear for the final approach to the anchor.

Gear I used.
Bd nuts 6, 7
Bd Cams yellow c3, .4, .5, .75, 1, 3, (could have used a 4)

Anchor: 2 rap bolts with chains.

Photos

Superclimber
  5.10
Superclimber  
  5.10
Another one of Erock's truly stellar traditional climbs. Feb 6, 2014
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
 
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
 
High quality climbing. Excellent thin sequence in the first half. It stays good throughout. Oct 2, 2014
for the full value make sure to not smear on the adjacent angled wall. Excellent lead with a variety of gear options. Mar 4, 2016
Jake Cantu
  5.10c
Jake Cantu  
  5.10c
Super fun climb. Stellar boulder problem at the bottom (crux) then really fun climbing to the top. Plenty of gear options. Nov 7, 2016
Fun route but definitely the most terrifying in terms of gear that I've done yet. The part where the crack peters out scares you good with how thin the flake is, how mediocre the rock quality is and how irregular the placements are. Was glad to have totems on this one as I would not have felt near as confident with C4s in several spots. Seems like several spots would be good candidates for offset nuts too. Feb 11, 2018
Andrew Mark
SLC, UT
 
Andrew Mark   SLC, UT
 
One of the few E rock routes that will take nuts well. Aug 14, 2018