Diretta Dimai (Dimai Direct)

Originally done with etriers as a mixed free and aid climb, but has evolved into a magnificent free climbing testpiece in the Cinque Torri. This route shares the first two pitches of Via Miriam. From the second belay stance of that route continue upwards for another 50 feet of easy (UIAA Grade III, 5.4-5.5) but exposed climbing to a double bolt anchor. The fourth pitch is extremely exposed and traverses left following several fixed pitons and a few bolts before striking directly upwards on a slightly diagonaling line to the right following several more bolts; this pitch is difficult free climbing (UIAA IV+, V+, and finally VI; It may also be aided at A-0. This is probably hard 5.9 if done all free). The belay is another multi bolt anchor, and pitch five is another very exposed but ascending traverse to the left which follows a line of fixed gear (UIAA Grade V-, or 5.6/5.7). Pitch six is pretty much straight up, and again follows fixed protection of pitons and bolts. (UIAA Grade VI-, or 5.8+). Pitch seven is the crux and is a thin crack; again fixed protection (UIAA VI+, 5.10a/b or A-1). The final pitch is much easier and has several chickenheads or threads for protection (UIAA III). Although it would seem possible to link pitches with a longer rope, breaking this into several shorter ones certainly avoids issues of excessive rope drag due to the devious line sometimes followed.

P1) 5.8, 50m 6 bolts/pins  Climb the polished wall directly taking a slight deviation at ~10m around a bulge. Follow the wall directly for another 15m until you pass a belay on a large ledge. Step right heading for the next corner. Climb the short left facing corner, step right on to the face, pass a thread and exit left at the top to a large ledge. Miriam branches left here. Continue up a bit further and look for a comfortable stance at a nice 2 bolt anchor.

P2) 5.6, 15m Continue up and right thru the Grey rock to another 3 bolt stance in a shallow alcove.

P3) 5.10B, 20m, 8 bolts/pins Traverse left for 8m following a horizontal crack then climb direct just left of the arete to a 3 bolt belay.

P4) 5.7, 20m, 4 bolts/pins Step up 2m and follow a horizontal ledge left 20m 3 bolts 1 pin

3 bolt belay

P5) 5.10C, 33m, 12 bolts/pins  Climb up and trending right for ~20m passing a belay. Follow two successive pale cracks back left and thru the steeper overhang to a 2 bolt stance on a ledge.

P6)  5.6, 32m  Move left from the belay, climb a short slab then cross over a gully. Continue left then back right in a second short gully to exit just below the summit. The original finish to Via Miriam joins here. Move up left to the top.

Descent:

Option 1 - Same as Via Miriam

Option 2 - (2x50m ropes)  For climbs finishing on the summit, head to the west where you'll find an abseil point on a large boulder. Make a short abseil of 20m into the gully between the four towers, then make your way down left (looking down) to reach a large cemented abseil ring. Make a long 50m abseil into the gully between Torre Grande Sud and Torre Grande Nord. Continue down the scree gully on easy ground until you reach a final abseil station where the ground gets steeper. Make a final 25m abseil back down to the ground and the start of Fessura Dimai.