Type: Boulder
FA: Scott Frye
Page Views: 504 total · 6/month
Shared By: Mostafa Noori on Dec 31, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Traverse the entire boulder starting on a small rounded rock pedestal left of Coulda been Jimi's. Drop down almost immediately and stay fairly low the entire way. Once you reach the crack (you should still be really low to the ground) pull through the semi short but stout crux and reach for some thank god jugs rounding the corner. It's not over yet as now you must drop back down to a series of moves up a right leaning ramp/rail and commit to the final 8 ft of micro crimps and blisteringly thin feet of Smoke Pot Row. A slightly ascending brutally thin and sustained V4 traverse with a rounded desperate slap fest exit on the South (low angle) side of the boulder. Best of luck!

There is a V7 variation that is mostly the same but takes the hardest moves in the Crux out. Follow the same traverse from the start, but at the crack (Jimmi's Butt Crack) climb up and use the rounded rail and better holds above to aid your scamper across the steep face before dropping back down to round the corner. You still gotta finish on Smoke Pot Row V4 though. Don't cheat yourself...

Protection

Pad and ibuprofen

Photos

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Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
FA Scott Frye? Nov 29, 2013
Salamanizer suchoski
Janesville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Janesville Ca.  
 
^^^
Correct you are. Fixed! Nov 29, 2013