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Routes in El Abuelo

Aprendiendo a Volar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Canal Estalactita T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Del Techo T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Normal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ñaca Ñaca Crunch Crunch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 360 ft, 4 pitches
FA: S. de la Cruz, S. Letemendia 1984
Page Views: 566 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jim Med on Dec 31, 2011
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

A nice, moderate crack tour up the Northwest corner of El Abuelo- with an irresistible name to boot.
I am a bit foggy on the details of each pitch... however the last pitch is memorable: climb up to a bombay chimney capped by a roof, which is split by a wide crack. Chimney up to a nice edge on the left wall and stem out past the roof- nice position!

Location

Work your way up increasingly steep gullys as you approach the right side of El Abuelo, and cross back to the left onto a nice ledge at the base of the route.

Protection

standard rack with a #4 camalot for the last chimney pitch.

Photos

Medic741
Red Hook, New York
 
Medic741   Red Hook, New York
 
I backed off this because we didn't have a #5 which would have protected the offwidth going up to the chimney Jul 7, 2016
Emmett Lyman
Somerville, MA
 
Emmett Lyman   Somerville, MA
 
The final chimney is hands-down the best reason to do this route. Bring a 5 and bump it repeatedly as you come out under and then turn the roof. It's pretty tight up there, and wearing a ballcap under my helmet made it harder than it should have been.

We linked P1-2 and P3-4. There was rope drag, but made for a much faster climb. Found P1-2 very dirty and uninspired, but perhaps we were offroute.

Location beta - route starts at the base of a right facing corner with a bolt about 10 ft up on the left face, missing a hanger. Also looked possible to scramble above the first ~25 ft of climbing by walking further climbers right along the base. Jan 11, 2017
John Gassel
Somerville, MA
  5.9
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
  5.9
More location beta: Look for what Emmett mentioned. It should be obvious as the first large clearing after you emerge from the Junipers.

Routefinding beta: On what I believe is P2, you'll be at a headwall of sorts. There are two cracks. The left one looks like it gets harder and lacking in pro. Avoid that one in favor of the one on the right. It takes good pro and is quite fun. Added bonus that it's actually the route too. :)

Agreed that the final chimney is the money part of the route. The #5 is really nice for this pitch, as was a #4.

You can easily rappel off the back side of El Abuelo with a single rope. We had a 70m and made it all the way to the ground. You can probably make it work with a 60m rope too with some easy scrambling. Jan 11, 2017

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