Type: Trad, Alpine, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: E. Gutierrez - L. Kopcke 1988
Page Views: 770 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jim Mediatore on Dec 31, 2011
Admins: Tony Yeary, Camster (Rhymes with Hamster), Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route

13 Opinions

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The name is fitting for this one... Given 6a+ in the guidebook, feels quite a bit harder than other 6a's and 6b's at Frey- more like 6b+ (5.10d). Your mileage may vary.
Crux is passing the initial small roof, either by strenuous laybacking or direct hand and off-finger jamming (10+). Jam up past another small roof to a ledge beneath a clean, narrow, right-facing dihedral with a perfect finger crack(9+). Exit right and scramble up and left to belay at a chockstone slung with a rope, which can be backed up with a couple of medium nuts on long slings behind to the left.
The second pitch is not climbed as often, but climbs a spectacular wide crack up a steep, featured face (5.9). Big cams required for pro (#4 will get you by, #5 fits higher towards the crux section.


Shallow, right-facing dihedrals on the right edge of the Southwest face of El Abuelo. Start on a platform with a right-facing dihedral beneath a small roof with a 2-inch crack.


camalots #0.3 to #3 for 1st pitch; #4 and #5 camalots useful for wide 2nd pitch.