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Routes in Renaissance Crag

Black Death, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bring Out Your Dead T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Camelbak Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pestilence Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Renaissance Man S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Sword In The Stone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trebuchet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wicked Duke Takes a Wife, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Andy Patterson, March 2, 2013
Page Views: 852 total, 12/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Dec 30, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The proudest and hardest line at the crag. Truly difficult. It was also the first line we even tried at Renaissance Crag. For some reason, we thought the moves would go quickly on TR. Wrong. The bottom twelve feet of this rig eluded me (and others) for the better part of three years till finally, on a hot March day, I made it happen.

Jens Amundsen, a long-time Rattlesnake compatriot, was belaying. I had planned to TR the route clean before putting in a lead bolt to protect the bottom crux, but my gut had other plans. I think I needed the motivation of leading to try harder, so Jens watched patiently while I added a fat lead bolt, lowered down, and psyched up. On my second ground-up go, I climbed through the crux and reached the flared crack—a new highpoint for me at the time—and then promptly fell off in surprise. Third go wasn't much better. Then, with my tips super raw and the afternoon sun about to bake the tiny crimps, I gave it my best harumph.

Done!

Location

Starts about five feet right of Trebuchet, directly below the big fat lead bolt. Pull through some burly underclings, figure out a sequence through the face of crimps, then gain the flared crack. Finish up and right per Trebuchet.

Protection

Three bolts. First bolt is pretty high, so can be stick-clipped.

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Ren Man saw a second ascent this last weekend (3/4/2017). Pablo Hammack, local crusher and destroyer of all our projects, had the honor. He offered solid 5.13c for the grade. Mar 7, 2017
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
By the way, the route definitely goes from the sit-start, which begins downhill and right of the original stand-start. Bernd and I scoped it out. At the moment, the send dangles just out of reach, beyond the provenance of my still-too-weak crimping abilities. In essence: imagine a 6 or 7-move V6/7 in to a 15-move V9/10.

Total moves of climbing-bliss: 21-22, depending on sequence.

Hooray for silly motivations. Jul 2, 2013
Way to go, nice job Andy!!

I haven't even gotten on this thing yet and I already know it's hard. Now that's it's done, my interest is certainly piqued... Maybe I'll wait for a cool day to give it a try? ;) Mar 4, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Anyone who knows me understands how long-term a project this was for me. For some reason, Renaissance Man weaseled its way under my skin, and the crux problem languished in my subconscious, seemingly never to leave or resolve itself. How hard is it really? Well, I'm not sure, but considering how many people have tried it, how long it stymied me, and the angle of the cliff, I think the route can claim a pretty stout grade. 5.13b/c is only a suggestion, folks.

Whatever the rating, I'm super proud of this send. Certainly the hardest moves I've ever done on a rope. Mar 3, 2013