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Routes in Renaissance Crag

Black Death, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bring Out Your Dead T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Camelbak Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pestilence Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Renaissance Man S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Sword In The Stone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trebuchet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wicked Duke Takes a Wife, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 619 total, 9/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Dec 30, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A somewhat powerful, in-your-face trad route of short stature. This line was done by someone a long time ago, I'm sure. A bit sporty to the first placement, but a good spot makes things palatable. After the mantle, things ease considerably. You can head up and left in to the hand-crack (I'm assuming this is how the route was originally led?) or you can go straight up the gently overhanging face via great edges (5.9ish), passing one bolt. The crack is typically quite dirty and contains suspect rock.

Location

Just to the left of Trebuchet.

Protection

Takes finger-sized pieces, and one quickdraw/sling. There's no real pro below the crack. I bring a .5 Camalot. After mantling the bulge, head straight up the face, passing one bolt.

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andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Sorry about the fixed gear. Bernd and I left it there for making things convenient. We forgot to retrieve it. Jul 20, 2013
Tucker Eurman
  5.10c/d PG13
Tucker Eurman  
  5.10c/d PG13
There are some nuts left in the crack, and a quickdraw above the mantle. The route is doable with the protection available, but would be more comfortable with a little more. The route itself is very powerful up to the mantle, then easy once you scramble up and over. My muscular brother breezed up it, but took skinny me a little more huffing and puffing. Felt very accomplished at the end. Definitely think its an upper 5.10 unless you are gifted in the upper body strength. Jul 14, 2013
Richard Shore
  5.10
Richard Shore  
  5.10
I'd give it PG-13 on the safety rating. Bouldery crux start over an uneven, root-filled landing leads to a stance 10 feet up where you can place a .5 camalot. Better yet, place two pieces. This is SB sandstone.. Jan 3, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
A decent warmup for the harder stuff. Has very interestingly featured and coarse rock. Dec 30, 2011