Hmm! Fresh Meat!
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Routes in The Rotundity
|Hmm! Fresh Meat! T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 230 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Crusher Bartlett, Strappo Hughes, October 1990|
|Page Views:||1,809 total, 25/month|
|Shared By:||Ken Trout on Dec 29, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
BetaMike Carr found this amazing route and brought his brother Tom and me in for a look. Thanks, Mike!
We didn't know who put the route up. Bjorn discovered who did it for us in an old Rock & Ice with a picture of Strappo and Crusher sending.
Pitch one starts with #2 and #3 Camalot-sized jams. Before the belay at the first rap anchor, layback the much steeper #4 and #5 Camalot sized crack (5.10-, 35m).
Pitch two is #4, #5, and #6-sized. Look for a fabulous escape out right, then back left to the second rappel anchors (5.10, 15m).
Pitch three is the crux with a long layback to where the corner ends. The crux is the delicate move to get into the wide crack. It is protected by two bolts and three #6 Friends. There is no ledge for two, so just lower off the final two bolt anchor back to the second belay (5.10+, 20m).
The fourth pitch is too rotten to be worth a five mile hike.
ProtectionOne 70 meter rope is enough.
Bring two or three #2, #3, #4, and #5 Camalots, nothing smaller. You need three #6 Friends or Camalots for the third pitch.