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Routes in The Rotundity

Hmm! Fresh Meat! T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Crusher Bartlett, Strappo Hughes, October 1990
Page Views: 1,809 total, 25/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Dec 29, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Mike Carr found this amazing route and brought his brother Tom and me in for a look. Thanks, Mike!

We didn't know who put the route up. Bjorn discovered who did it for us in an old Rock & Ice with a picture of Strappo and Crusher sending.

Pitch one starts with #2 and #3 Camalot-sized jams. Before the belay at the first rap anchor, layback the much steeper #4 and #5 Camalot sized crack (5.10-, 35m).

Pitch two is #4, #5, and #6-sized. Look for a fabulous escape out right, then back left to the second rappel anchors (5.10, 15m).

Pitch three is the crux with a long layback to where the corner ends. The crux is the delicate move to get into the wide crack. It is protected by two bolts and three #6 Friends. There is no ledge for two, so just lower off the final two bolt anchor back to the second belay (5.10+, 20m).

The fourth pitch is too rotten to be worth a five mile hike.

Protection

One 70 meter rope is enough.

Bring two or three #2, #3, #4, and #5 Camalots, nothing smaller. You need three #6 Friends or Camalots for the third pitch.

Location

Hmm...Fresh Meat! is in a dihedral that faces left. It can't be seen at all until your about there.
Oh, we actually named the crag "The Rotundity" for the bulbousness it displays, bulging everywhere. Jan 3, 2013
The cat's out of the bag now.... The dihedral looks beautiful and intimidating but climbs really well!

First ascent: October 1990. Strappo led pitch 1, I led pitch 2, which seemed the best pitch, we were expecting grueling wideness but kept finding sneaky forays out onto the face. Superb!

Looks like broke down our pitches a bit differently. We did a shortish first pitch (to the little ledge), then the second pitch was longer than described here.

We had to return, re-lead so Strappo could lead the pitch 3. This was more traditional fist-offwidth terrain, as I recall. The rock deteriorated higher, so we called it good. Jan 3, 2013
It's now out, no more as Mike called it "Secret Crack". I was with you guys the weekend you drilled in the new bolts on P1, Ken.

I'll never forget Mike's description of the approach, "it's only an hour and a half".

3.5 hours later through some very wild country and terrain we arrived at the base.

I think we all climbed P1 that weekend, my wife Julie, you, and Mike.... Feb 27, 2012
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
Thanks for posting this up, Ken! Dec 29, 2011