Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Andy Patterson, Summer 2011
Page Views: 2,174 total · 23/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Dec 28, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

First ascents are tricky to find, nab, and grade. Trebuchet struck me as exceptionally beautiful and powerful, so I committed myself to equipping and leading it. To be sure, there WERE old top-rope anchors on top of the cliff, so I can't prove the line was never climbed on TR, but I feel lucky to be the first person to have bolted and led Trebuchet. Is it 5.13? By my best judgement (which isn't always the best arbiter of truth), I think it might be, if maybe slightly easier. You could also think of it as a V6 or V7 boulder problem with a rope. Go, climb it, tell me what you think.

Here's the spray-down:

Start with right hand on a two-finger pocket undercling, and left hand on a open-hand pinch/crimp.

1) Hike feet, set up, and throw up and right for the jug at the apex of the arete.

2) Hold swing, find feet, then figure out how to enter horrendously flared finger crack.

3) Climb the crack system up and right via some insecure fingerlocks and deadpoints till you gain a sharp jug.

4) Shake out, then dyno straight up to a fairly bad edge. Punch through to the glory jug. Top out crag.

So insanely good.

Location

Begins at the bottom of the left arete on the Renaissance Man crag. Just left of Renaissance Man (the route).

Protection

There are four bolts that lead to a runout top section that you probably won't fall from. I originally sent with three bolts, but not before taking some thrilling falls from the top of the crag. A fourth bolt seemed prudent.

Photos