Avg: 3.8 from 4 votes
Routes in Renaissance Crag
|Black Death, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Bring Out Your Dead T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Camelbak Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Pestilence Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Renaissance Man S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c|
|Sword In The Stone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Trebuchet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Wicked Duke Takes a Wife, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Sport, 35 ft|
|FA:||Andy Patterson, Summer 2011|
|Page Views:||1,794 total, 25/month|
|Shared By:||andy patterson on Dec 28, 2011|
|Admins:||andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionFirst ascents are tricky to find, nab, and grade. Trebuchet struck me as exceptionally beautiful and powerful, so I committed myself to equipping and leading it. To be sure, there WERE old top-rope anchors on top of the cliff, so I can't prove the line was never climbed on TR, but I feel lucky to be the first person to have bolted and led Trebuchet. Is it 5.13? By my best judgement (which isn't always the best arbiter of truth), I think it might be, if maybe slightly easier. You could also think of it as a V6 or V7 boulder problem with a rope. Go, climb it, tell me what you think.
Here's the spray-down:
Start with right hand on a two-finger pocket undercling, and left hand on a open-hand pinch/crimp.
1) Hike feet, set up, and throw up and right for the jug at the apex of the arete.
2) Hold swing, find feet, then figure out how to enter horrendously flared finger crack.
3) Climb the crack system up and right via some insecure fingerlocks and deadpoints till you gain a sharp jug.
4) Shake out, then dyno straight up to a fairly bad edge. Punch through to the glory jug. Top out crag.
So insanely good.