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Routes in Renaissance Crag

Black Death, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bring Out Your Dead T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Camelbak Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pestilence Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Renaissance Man S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Sword In The Stone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trebuchet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wicked Duke Takes a Wife, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Andy Patterson, Summer 2011
Page Views: 1,794 total, 25/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Dec 28, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

First ascents are tricky to find, nab, and grade. Trebuchet struck me as exceptionally beautiful and powerful, so I committed myself to equipping and leading it. To be sure, there WERE old top-rope anchors on top of the cliff, so I can't prove the line was never climbed on TR, but I feel lucky to be the first person to have bolted and led Trebuchet. Is it 5.13? By my best judgement (which isn't always the best arbiter of truth), I think it might be, if maybe slightly easier. You could also think of it as a V6 or V7 boulder problem with a rope. Go, climb it, tell me what you think.


Here's the spray-down:

Start with right hand on a two-finger pocket undercling, and left hand on a open-hand pinch/crimp.

1) Hike feet, set up, and throw up and right for the jug at the apex of the arete.

2) Hold swing, find feet, then figure out how to enter horrendously flared finger crack.

3) Climb the crack system up and right via some insecure fingerlocks and deadpoints till you gain a sharp jug.

4) Shake out, then dyno straight up to a fairly bad edge. Punch through to the glory jug. Top out crag.

So insanely good.

Location

Begins at the bottom of the left arete on the Renaissance Man crag. Just left of Renaissance Man (the route).

Protection

There are four bolts that lead to a runout top section that you probably won't fall from. I originally sent with three bolts, but not before taking some thrilling falls from the top of the crag. A fourth bolt seemed prudent.
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
I added a sit-start to Trebuchet today. In a word: AWESOME! The route feels more complete, somehow. Start with left hand on sharp jug and right hand on a little dish. Crank up and right in to the start of Trebuchet. Adds some pump and power to an already rowdy line. Sooo good.

Also, and this is neither here nor there, but I'm beginning to wonder if Trebuchet might be closer to 12+ from the stand, 13a if you start seated. I'm waiting for more ascents to let the grade settle. It's hard to grade this route from a YDS standpoint since it's basically a boulder problem (V7ish) with a rope. If guns are you're specialty, then this will be a gimme-13a. If slow, methodical endurance flips your trigger, then the powerful moves will feel real hard. Jun 10, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
On June 5 Trebuchet saw its 2nd and 3rd ascent by Elijah Ball and Bernd Zeugswetter, respectively.

Also, per Richard's warning, I added a belay bolt at the base of the start. No more belayer-climber collisions. Jun 5, 2013
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
This looks really cool. Mar 30, 2013
A note about belaying on this route - you'll want to be tied off to one of the tree roots left of the start. Good verbal communication between climber and belayer is important as you lose all visuals when the climber turns the initial corner. The 3 bolts just barely keep the leader off the ground at any point on the route if he peels.

Too hard for me (no guns) but I had the pleasure of watching Andy work this project for a few hours. The line is beautiful and has a dyno start to boot! Jan 3, 2012