Type: Sport, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Randy Leavitt, Brian Spiewak, Chris Hubbard, Glen Svenson, Ross Garrett, Graham Colgan, Zack Dembitsky, Todd Smith & George Hoover
Page Views: 4,728 total · 56/month
Shared By: Joseph Lascurain on Dec 28, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Pitch 1 (5.11c): Hard start moves up and left to crux to gain belay ledge. Use belay bolt.
Pitch 2 (5.11b): Another hard start on the block above belay anchors. A couple of mantles will get you to the sharp crimp crux of the pitch to gain a good (although worst of the route) belay ledge.
Pitch 3 (5.11b): Climbs up and right to the steep bolted section of wall. More good sharp crimps will get you to a large belay ledge known as the command center.
Pitch 4 (5.10b): Climbs the route above the huge rap bolt/hanger. Nice varied climbing and a nice rest after the previous 3 pitches.
Pitch 5 (5.12a): Crux pitch. Climb starts straight up above belay anchors. Bolt spacing is a bit further apart than the previous harder pitches until you reach the steep crux section.

Location

Directly infront of you from approach trail. Scramble up dirty loose rocks to first belay ledge.

Protection

Bolts. Rap Anchors.

Photos

This is a great route! The last 2 pitches are as good as it gets. Nov 7, 2012
Josh Higgins
San Diego, CA
  5.12b
Josh Higgins   San Diego, CA
  5.12b
I've done this route a number of times, and it is probably harder than rated. I'd give a pitch breakdown like this:
Pitch 1 - 11d
Pitch 2 - 11d/12a
Pitch 3 - 12a
Pitch 4 - 5.10
Pitch 5 - 5.12b or c

My friends and I have always thought the route was 5.12b. I did another burn on the route today, and even though I haven't done it for a couple of years I felt that some holds might have broken around the crux on the 2nd half of the last pitch. The reaches were larger, fewer holds, and it might be 5.12c now. I remember a bunch of tick-tacky little holds that led to a confusing sequence which added to the difficulty. Today was just massive reaches between usable holds. Maybe I'm getting older and weaker, but I believe the route got a little harder. Mar 9, 2016
Tyler Rohr 2
Cambridge, MA
 
Tyler Rohr 2   Cambridge, MA
 
Some maybe helpful notes:

Start. As soon as the approach trail reaches the cliff and splits left or right, roughly continue walking straight up about 20 feet of shrubs/loose stuff to the base. You'll see a very clear 'X' made by two seems on a ~40ft block above. Pitch one starts on the left leaning seam. The rest is clear from the top online.

Regarding grades, I thought they were generally fair, except the pitch 2 and 3 are pretty sharp/loose which makes everything feel more difficult IMO. O, and the last two bolts of pitch 2 are perplexing. Maybe a hold broke or I couldn't figure out the beta, but pitch 5 went fine and I had to aid this section...whatever thats worth.

Anyway, even though the first few pitches are a bit choosy, the pitches up top are really good. Once you're up there FOR SURE do the 12a pitch AND the 11b to the right, Tears of Envy. You can do them both form the same belay.

Nice little climb so close to down. Would certainly get even better with a bit more traffic it seems. Mar 31, 2018
Andre Mere
  5.12b
Andre Mere  
  5.12b
Classic ECM crimping! The exposure and movement on p5 is awesome. Bullet rock on all pitches save for 2. Maybe take miss tigers instead. May 19, 2018