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Routes in Center/Headwall

Being and Nothingness S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0+
Black Castle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Center Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Commander, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Diamond of San Diego S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Halcyon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Napoleon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pockets of Resistance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right as Rain T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sole Purpose S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spitfire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Storm T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Swiftness Direct T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Swiftness, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tears of Envy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thunder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Walter Cat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Randy Leavitt, Brian Spiewak, Chris Hubbard, Glen Svenson, Ross Garrett, Graham Colgan, Zack Dembitsky, Todd Smith & George Hoover
Page Views: 3,984 total, 55/month
Shared By: Joseph Lascurain on Dec 28, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Pitch 1 (5.11c): Hard start moves up and left to crux to gain belay ledge. Use belay bolt.
Pitch 2 (5.11b): Another hard start on the block above belay anchors. A couple of mantles will get you to the sharp crimp crux of the pitch to gain a good (although worst of the route) belay ledge.
Pitch 3 (5.11b): Climbs up and right to the steep bolted section of wall. More good sharp crimps will get you to a large belay ledge known as the command center.
Pitch 4 (5.10b): Climbs the route above the huge rap bolt/hanger. Nice varied climbing and a nice rest after the previous 3 pitches.
Pitch 5 (5.12a): Crux pitch. Climb starts straight up above belay anchors. Bolt spacing is a bit further apart than the previous harder pitches until you reach the steep crux section.

Location

Directly infront of you from approach trail. Scramble up dirty loose rocks to first belay ledge.

Protection

Bolts. Rap Anchors.

Photos

Josh Higgins
  5.12b
Josh Higgins  
  5.12b
I've done this route a number of times, and it is probably harder than rated. I'd give a pitch breakdown like this:
Pitch 1 - 11d
Pitch 2 - 11d/12a
Pitch 3 - 12a
Pitch 4 - 5.10
Pitch 5 - 5.12b or c

My friends and I have always thought the route was 5.12b. I did another burn on the route today, and even though I haven't done it for a couple of years I felt that some holds might have broken around the crux on the 2nd half of the last pitch. The reaches were larger, fewer holds, and it might be 5.12c now. I remember a bunch of tick-tacky little holds that led to a confusing sequence which added to the difficulty. Today was just massive reaches between usable holds. Maybe I'm getting older and weaker, but I believe the route got a little harder. Mar 9, 2016
GoBoy
 
GoBoy  
 
This is a great route! The last 2 pitches are as good as it gets. Nov 7, 2012