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Routes in Tuefelstalwand

Alpentraum S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pissoir du Diable 6b T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zeichen der Freundschaft 6b+ S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 750 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Stefan Buehlmann, Roman Dolf
Page Views: 50 total, 1/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Dec 27, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn

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Description

Not as spectacular as the neighboring Zeichen der Freundschaft, but certainly a worthwhile climb. In contrast to the Zeichen route, the difficulties in this climb are defined more by thin face climbing sections.

The crux early in third pitch (6b) is a thin and technical sequence up to and over a bulge on small sidepulls and crimpers. We found the crux moves in the seventh pitch (6a+) to be the most challenging of the route, as it traverses around a large flake using high underclings for the hands and counterpressure alone to keep the feet pasted on the smooth, near vertical face. Otherwise, we thought the grading was a bit on the soft side.

Topo

Location

The route is approximately 80 meters further up the base of the gorge from the Zeichen route. There are fixed ropes leading to the start of the climb, which itself is labeled.

Protection

We found the bolting to be better than the topo would suggest. All the face climbing sections are very well bolted. A small assortment of cams should suffice to complement the almost adequate bolting on the crack climbing sections.

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