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Routes in Tuefelstalwand

Alpentraum S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pissoir du Diable 6b T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zeichen der Freundschaft 6b+ S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 900 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: Roger Würsch, Christoph Linder, Patrick Muhmenthaler, Claude Lévy
Page Views: 898 total, 12/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Dec 27, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn

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Description

A wonderful line following various corner and crack systems. Entertaining from bottom to top, and very homogeneous in difficulty. This route, still quite new, is destined to become a classic.

Pitches go at 5c+, 6a, 6a+, 6b+, 6b, 5c+, 5c+, 6a, 6a+, 6b+. We found the final pitch to be the most demanding: after a gorgeous layback crack, the pitch traverses several meters to the right, underneath a bulge, where a very solid portion of counterpressure (arms pulling an undercling, feet pushing against the vertical slab underneath) is required.

Location

From the base of the abseilpiste, ascend the gully a short distance, following red markings. Scramble across to the other side of the gully, still following the markings, to a fixed rope which leads to the start of the route (name is painted at the base).

See area description for getting in to the gorge and back to the starting point afterwards.

Protection

Fully bolted from start to finish.

2x50m ropes.

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