Type: Sport, 900 ft (273 m), 10 pitches, Grade III
GPS: 46.6497, 8.5967
FA: Roger Würsch, Christoph Linder, Patrick Muhmenthaler, Claude Lévy
Page Views: 2,378 total · 13/month
Shared By: CG W on Dec 27, 2011
Admins: Mark P., James H, Dan Flynn
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Description Suggest change

A wonderful line following various corner and crack systems. Entertaining from bottom to top, and very homogeneous in difficulty. This route, still quite new, is destined to become a classic.

Pitches go at 5c+, 6a, 6a+, 6b+, 6b, 5c+, 5c+, 6a, 6a+, 6b+. We found the final pitch to be the most demanding: after a gorgeous layback crack, the pitch traverses several meters to the right, underneath a bulge, where a very solid portion of counterpressure (arms pulling an undercling, feet pushing against the vertical slab underneath) is required.

Location Suggest change

From the base of the abseilpiste, ascend the gully a short distance, following red markings. Scramble across to the other side of the gully, still following the markings, to a fixed rope which leads to the start of the route (name is painted at the base).

See area description for getting in to the gorge and back to the starting point afterwards.

Protection Suggest change

Fully bolted from start to finish.

2x50m ropes.

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Photos

The unforgettable layback crack on pitch three of Zeichen der Freundschaft (6a+)
The unforgettable layback crack on pitch three…
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Pitch five (6b), Zeichen der Freundschaft
Pitch five (6b), Zeichen der Freundschaft
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Pitch five (6b), Zeichen der Freundschaft
Pitch five (6b), Zeichen der Freundschaft
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Pitch seven (5c+), Zeichen der Freundschaft
Pitch seven (5c+), Zeichen der Freundschaft
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Exiting pitch nine (6a+), Zeichen der Freundschaft, with a nice view of the Teufelstal gorge in the background
Exiting pitch nine (6a+), Zeichen der Freundsch…
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Pitch ten (6b+), Zeichen der Freundschaft, just before the crux traverse.
Pitch ten (6b+), Zeichen der Freundschaft, just…
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Pitch four of Zeichen der Freundschaft (6b+). Goes very smooth with appendage jams.
Pitch four of Zeichen der Freundschaft (6b+). G…
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The fat crack of pitch four, Zeichen der Freundschaft (6b+)
The fat crack of pitch four, Zeichen der Freund…
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Zeichen der Freundschaft, in the thin upper section of pitch two (6a)
Zeichen der Freundschaft, in the thin upper sec…
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Pitch five of Zeichen der Freundschaft (6b)
Pitch five of Zeichen der Freundschaft (6b)
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Pitch ten of Zeichen der Freundschaft (6b+), the crux pitch of the route, ascending a PERFECT layback crack, stemming with the fin on the left side of the corner at first, then full-on layback up to the bulge, and a hard traverse along the bulge to exit.
Pitch ten of Zeichen der Freundschaft (6b+), th…
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Pitch one of Zeichen der Freundschaft (5c+)
Pitch one of Zeichen der Freundschaft (5c+)
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