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Perrenoud

5.10a, Trad, Sport, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 8 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: Perrenoud, Mottet
International > Europe > Switzerland > Central Switzer… > Furka Pass > Chli Bielenhorn

Description

A classic of the wall and the region, following a single corner / chimney system for five pitches and topped off with three additional pitches of high-quality crack and corner climbing.

All in all, the routes offers superb climbing for the grade. It is the easiest route on the south face of the Chli Bielenhorn, and the most frequently climbed (due also in part to the excellent bolting).

Pitches go at 4c, 5a, 5b, 5b, 6a, 6a, 6a, 5b. Crux is the second 6a pitch, with a somewhat delicate, slabby traverse underneath a small roof
early on in the pitch. It is advisable to extend draws on this pitch to minimize rope drag.

Note that a neighboring route (bolts with square hangers) comes very close to Perrenoud on several occassions, and even shares a few of the belays. Always stay to the right, following the bolts with the rounded hangers, when presented with an option.

Location

The route is somewhat left of center on the south face, and begins in a south-east oriented chimney. There is typically a snowfield at the base of this part of the wall, and a clear trail across such to the start of the route. The snowfield is generally unproblematic (does not require an axe or crampons).

Descent is by abseil down the route (2x50m ropes).

Protection

Well protected with bolts, particularly in the more difficult sections. It is advisable to bring a small assortment of cams to fill a few gaps in the easier pitches.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A good view of the Perrenoud line, which follows the continuous crack/corner system in the middle of the picture
[Hide Photo] A good view of the Perrenoud line, which follows the continuous crack/corner system in the middle of the picture
At the end of the route, we continued up the ridge.  Nothing in-situ here, but ample opportunities to protect. A worthwhile extension to the climb.
[Hide Photo] At the end of the route, we continued up the ridge. Nothing in-situ here, but ample opportunities to protect. A worthwhile extension to the climb.
Near the end of the crux sixth pitch of Perrenoud (6a)
[Hide Photo] Near the end of the crux sixth pitch of Perrenoud (6a)
Pitch seven - actually, got on a neighbouring route by accident (estimated 6a)- the Perrenoud line breaks right for an obvious corner early in the seventh pitch.
[Hide Photo] Pitch seven - actually, got on a neighbouring route by accident (estimated 6a)- the Perrenoud line breaks right for an obvious corner early in the seventh pitch.
Climbing the extensive corner / chimney system in the lower half of the Perrenoud route
[Hide Photo] Climbing the extensive corner / chimney system in the lower half of the Perrenoud route