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Routes in Chli Bielenhorn

H├Ągar T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kater Garfield T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Millius T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Perrenoud T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sacremotion T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 600 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Perrenoud, Mottet
Page Views: 317 total · 4/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Dec 26, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn

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A classic of the wall and the region, following a single corner / chimney system for five pitches and topped off with three additional pitches of high-quality crack and corner climbing.

All in all, the routes offers superb climbing for the grade. It is the easiest route on the south face of the Chli Bielenhorn, and the most frequently climbed (due also in part to the excellent bolting).

Pitches go at 4c, 5a, 5b, 5b, 6a, 6a, 6a, 5b. Crux is the second 6a pitch, with a somewhat delicate, slabby traverse underneath a small roof
early on in the pitch. It is advisable to extend draws on this pitch to minimize rope drag.

Note that a neighboring route (bolts with square hangers) comes very close to Perrenoud on several occassions, and even shares a few of the belays. Always stay to the right, following the bolts with the rounded hangers, when presented with an option.


The route is somewhat left of center on the south face, and begins in a south-east oriented chimney. There is typically a snowfield at the base of this part of the wall, and a clear trail across such to the start of the route. The snowfield is generally unproblematic (does not require an axe or crampons).

Descent is by abseil down the route (2x50m ropes).


Well protected with bolts, particularly in the more difficult sections. It is advisable to bring a small assortment of cams to fill a few gaps in the easier pitches.