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Routes in Westmont College Boulder

Fight the Devil and Pray V4 6B
Honk If You love Jesus V5+ 6C+
John V3 6A
Sister Sharon V0 4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder
FA: No idea. The first guy I ever saw do it was Mitch Underhill, a climber from Tahoe.
Page Views: 475 total, 7/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Dec 26, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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On Private Property Details

Description

Okay, so this problem was always a mystery amongst Westmont climbers. Do you throw for the pocket? Mantle out right? I always believed the problem went for the pocket.

Which is rather hard, as in harder than V5.

In my opinion, throwing out left to the pocket, letting go of the sloping crimp with your right hand, catching the swing, then topping out the boulder amounts to a stellar V7 or V8. Things also feel reach-dependent, which might affect my perspective. Whatever grade you give it, I posted V5 since that's what Ocean's Eleven and the old Edwards bouldering guide says.

Location

To the right of the big oak tree, on the side of the boulder facing the road. Start right hand on sloping crimp, and left hand on a low left hand crimp. Left foot just off the ground, right foot pasted on a little nubbin-edge.

Protection

Pad.

Photos

Tim King
  V5
Tim King  
  V5
Had my first excursion out here a few weeks ago. Legit single boulder, love that patina and crazy runnel features.

In my eyes this problems has at least 3 variations: left, to the pocket at around v7/8?, straight up (almost dynamic) seems V5, or high foot and mantel out right (probably around V5 as well).

All good fun, I'll have to come back to finish that pocket variation... Jun 17, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
This problem is so rad. Extremely low-percentage (for me), and consists of two hard hand-movements. If that's not the definition of a good problem, I don't know what is. I call this problem V7/8 for sure. Oct 29, 2012
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
My memory is getting fuzzier. While I did, in fact, spend what seems like a ridiculous amount of time at this boulder I don't remember this either. Oddly enough things do change on soft sandstone boulders. If it feels that much harder I'm sure it is and wouldn't hesitate to change the grade. Oct 29, 2012
Although I have it checked off in an old book, I'd be able to add nothing to the discussion since I have pretty much no recollection of this one. Steve always had a better memory than me. Edwards? Jan 11, 2012