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Honk If You love Jesus [Edit]
V5+ YDS 6C+ Font
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Westmont College Boulder
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Fight the Devil and Pray V4 6B |
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Honk If You love Jesus V5+ 6C+ |
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John V3 6A |
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Sister Sharon V0 4 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Boulder |
| FA: | No idea. The first guy I ever saw do it was Mitch Underhill, a climber from Tahoe. |
| Page Views: | 485 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | andy patterson on Dec 26, 2011 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: On Private Property
Details
To my knowledge, Westmont College doesn't officially condone climbing on this boulder. Conversely, I'm not sure if they officially frown on it. In any case, tread quietly and be considerate.
Description [Edit]
Okay, so this problem was always a mystery amongst Westmont climbers. Do you throw for the pocket? Mantle out right? I always believed the problem went for the pocket.
Which is rather hard, as in harder than V5.
In my opinion, throwing out left to the pocket, letting go of the sloping crimp with your right hand, catching the swing, then topping out the boulder amounts to a stellar V7 or V8. Things also feel reach-dependent, which might affect my perspective. Whatever grade you give it, I posted V5 since that's what Ocean's Eleven and the old Edwards bouldering guide says.
Which is rather hard, as in harder than V5.
In my opinion, throwing out left to the pocket, letting go of the sloping crimp with your right hand, catching the swing, then topping out the boulder amounts to a stellar V7 or V8. Things also feel reach-dependent, which might affect my perspective. Whatever grade you give it, I posted V5 since that's what Ocean's Eleven and the old Edwards bouldering guide says.
Location [Edit]
To the right of the big oak tree, on the side of the boulder facing the road. Start right hand on sloping crimp, and left hand on a low left hand crimp. Left foot just off the ground, right foot pasted on a little nubbin-edge.
SLC, UT
Carpinteria, CA
In my eyes this problems has at least 3 variations: left, to the pocket at around v7/8?, straight up (almost dynamic) seems V5, or high foot and mantel out right (probably around V5 as well).
All good fun, I'll have to come back to finish that pocket variation... Jun 17, 2013