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Routes in Gross Bielenhorn - Southwest face

Niedermann / Anderruethi T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 1200 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Max Niedermann, Franz Anderrüthi
Page Views: 513 total, 7/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Dec 25, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn

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Description

The rock quality is superb, the climbing varied and sustained. The pitches go at 5c, 6a, 6a, 4c, 5c, 5c, 6a+, 5a, 6a.

From the base, follow the crack system up and right to gain a large ledge and the first belay (careful, there is another route up the face to the left of the crack system early in the first pitch).

The crux pitch, offering the most brilliant climbing in this route (and perhaps in the entire region), is the second one: a near-vertical 45 meter corner. Note that a different route ascends the face directly above the first belay - for the Niedermann Anderrüthi, you want to move directly left along the belay ledge, around, and into, the corner.

Route finding is fairly straightforward, following the obvious features and occasional bolt - both new and old (ring style).

Location

The routes is marked at its base (look for a yellow, red and black bull painted on the rock - depending on snow levels, you may have to scramble up a bit to the ledge where the route marking is). Descent is by abseil: 3x down the upper wall, preferably using the belays of the Fliegender Akku route (a newer route to the right of the Niedermann-Anderrüthi), and 4x down the lower wall using the NA belays.

Protection

Anchors were rebolted in 2005 and a few additional bolts were added to each pitch. Nevertheless, bringing an assortment of cams is highly recommended. With very few (mosty bolted) exceptions, there are generous opportunities to place gear throughout the route.

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