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Routes in Base Routes

Ahab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bluffer, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Hook, Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Hook, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Delectable Pinnacle, Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
El Cap Tree T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1-2
Footstool, Right, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Freeblast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gollum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hardly Pinnacle T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Indubious Battle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La Arista T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Cosita, Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Cosita, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Escuela T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little John, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little John, Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mark of Art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Masquerade/Call Me Ishmael S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Moby Dick T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moby Dick, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Party Mix T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Peter Left T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Peter Pan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pterodactyl Terrace, Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pterodactyl Terrace, Right T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reeds Leads T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Neurotic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sacherer Cracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Salathe (pitch 1) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Seedy Leads T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Short But Thin T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Simulkrime T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Slack ( center), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slack, Left, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sparkling Give-away T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
TRON S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13
West Buttress (pitch 1&2) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bob Kamps and Jim Sims (July '62)
Page Views: 3,456 total, 47/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Dec 23, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Peter Pan is a great offwidth climb in a spectacular location near the West Buttress of El Cap. It's just as splitter as Moby Dick Center or Sacherer Cracker, but the views are much better and you won't have to wait in line.

Hike for 20 minutes along the west face of El Cap, then scramble up 3rd class (there's usually fixed lines to grab). Peter Pan is the super obvious, right slating, offwidth up on the face. This splitter is approached from the left, starting at basically the exact same point as the West Buttress route.

Pitch 1: Up the gully with a bit of awkward 5.7 wiggling at the beginning. Belay at a bolted anchor on a ledge.

Pitch 2: Traverse right and slightly down to reach a hand crack. Follow this handcrack as it widens to fists and takes you to a ledge. You could belay here but we kept going. Climb up the offwidth which starts at about 4.5" and widens to a chimney. Belay in a alcove after about 190ft.

Pitch 3: A short pitch up the chimney, passing an awkward block. Above this, tunnel behind another block to reach the top of the pinnacle. The rope likes to get caught in a constriction so it's best to make pitch 2 super long and this one short.

To descend, make two double-rope rappels straight down. The anchor at the top of the pinnacle is sort of weird. It's a single bolt backed up by another bolt 10ft away (a rope attaches the two).

Protection

A single set of cams from 1" to a #6 Camalot. If you are timid in squeeze chimneys (or you can't squeeze inside a crack that's slightly wider than a tipped out #6) then you may want to bring big bros or something.

Photos

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Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
This time we link p1 with part of the p2 and belay at the beginning of the wide splitter ( the place which Reid book call the top of p2.) I had idea to make the second pitch to the top of the pinnacle, but stop 15 feet short at the bottom of the final chimney with block and belaying there since last 15 feet can cause a lot of rope drag.
5.7 chimney hard, but secure and it lower part protected with #9, middle part with #4 BigBro Apr 14, 2015
Rob Dillon  
 
You'd be fine, Alexey. But you do have to, um, choose life if you're gonna lead it. I think being solid would feel more confidence-inspiring than dragging up a pile of #4 BigBros. After the long squeezer you get a couple cams in; I recall a #2 camalot. Not much, but enough to exhale finally. The ledge is splendid. May 13, 2012
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
Very Attractive splitter. Did only OW part up to shitty bots. Did not have courage to go for 5.7 chimney without gears. Mainly because I felt that rating in this area is bit off and long 5.7 chimney can be very adventures without couple of #4 big bros.
Interesting stories and TR at ST:
supertopo.com/climbing/thre… May 1, 2012
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
No, I was referring to the ledge at the start of the offwidth, not the old bolt after passing the "ear".

I agree the first couple pitches of West Butt are sweet, and added it as a route. Dec 26, 2011
Rob Dillon  
 
This is a classic excursion: giant features on a giant cliff, and once you leave the ground it feels like you're halfway up El Cap. Watch for pterodactyls and maybe bring a couple beers up to the Peter Pan ledge at the top.

As long as you're in the neighborhood, don't miss the first two pitches of the West Buttress- maybe the coolest .10a in the Valley. Dec 24, 2011