Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bob Kamps and Jim Sims (July '62)
Page Views: 5,680 total · 62/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Dec 23, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Peter Pan is a great offwidth climb in a spectacular location near the West Buttress of El Cap. It's just as splitter as Moby Dick Center or Sacherer Cracker, but the views are much better and you won't have to wait in line.

Hike for 20 minutes along the west face of El Cap, then scramble up 3rd class (there's usually fixed lines to grab). Peter Pan is the super obvious, right slating, offwidth up on the face. This splitter is approached from the left, starting at basically the exact same point as the West Buttress route.

Pitch 1: Up the gully with a bit of awkward 5.7 wiggling at the beginning. Belay at a bolted anchor on a ledge.

Pitch 2: Traverse right and slightly down to reach a hand crack. Follow this handcrack as it widens to fists and takes you to a ledge. You could belay here but we kept going. Climb up the offwidth which starts at about 4.5" and widens to a chimney. Belay in a alcove after about 190ft.

Pitch 3: A short pitch up the chimney, passing an awkward block. Above this, tunnel behind another block to reach the top of the pinnacle. The rope likes to get caught in a constriction so it's best to make pitch 2 super long and this one short.

To descend, make two double-rope rappels straight down. The anchor at the top of the pinnacle is sort of weird. It's a single bolt backed up by another bolt 10ft away (a rope attaches the two).

Protection

A single set of cams from 1" to a #6 Camalot. If you are timid in squeeze chimneys (or you can't squeeze inside a crack that's slightly wider than a tipped out #6) then you may want to bring big bros or something.

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