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Routes in Great White Throne

Northwest Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Old South Face, Left Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
South Face Diagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jonathan & Brian Smoot, 2003
Page Views: 4,235 total, 58/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Dec 23, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route follows a series of unique diagonal ribs/ramps which are connected with mostly moderate face/slab climbing to the top of the South face. The rock is soft, white sandstone. All of the loose bolts & belays have been fixed.

Descend route using 2 - 50 meter ropes.

Location

Approach from on top via the Deertrap Mt. Trail. Takes about 2 - 3 hours. Follow trail for about 3 miles, passing Hidden Canyon drainage to a small rise and several switchbacks in the trail. Exit trail at the backside of the rise where you can get a view of East Temple. Soon you can see the top of the GWT and it's hondoos on the summit. Hike north, eventually descending to a slick rock gully which leads to the left side of the South face. Bringing a topo map is prudent.

Protection

1 - .75 camalot, 6 long draws
Note on the summit hoodoo - kinda tricky. 20 ft. East side notch, hand traverse left, and stem up toward the bush. This can be protected by a yellow BD 2 and perhaps a 0.3. Rap off the tree (no webbing currently). A hold blew on my buddy and he fell into the bush monster. Apr 4, 2016
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Thanks Bros Smoot for another fine adventure route! As of Nov 17 all the lead bolts and anchors were solid. The first bolt on the 4th pitch has a loose hanger but held a couple of falls just fine - should have brushed up on my sandy slab skills before tackling this one! With a good topo map and BrianSLC's excellent approach beta it was a leisurely 3 hour approach - key is heading north just after getting the awesome view towards the East Temple and into Pine Creek. Nov 26, 2012
Thanks Brian, this looks great. Dec 24, 2011