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Routes in Scoop Area

General Lee V2 5+
Jeremy's Sick Crimps V4+ 6B+
Lumberjack V5-6 6C+
Next Message, The V7 7A+
Reverse Scoop V0- 4-
Scoop, The V3 6A
Teachers Pet V0 4
anaconda V10 7C+
Type: Boulder
FA: Unknown, possibly vasya
Page Views: 1,198 total, 17/month
Shared By: jedidiah on Dec 19, 2011
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is the blunt arete to the right of lumberjack. The stand went back in the day of "Rio" and felt V8. A few years back Vasya did the sit. Start on a small pinch with your right and your left on a side pull, stand up into a very powerful under cling and slap right hand to a good side pull muckle your feet and body up squeezing so water comes out of the rock. The climb feels like 2 stacked V8s to me but really needs more opinions

Location

the Scoop area, on the same rock as Lumberjack

Protection

none
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
I climbed the stand start to this today as the sit is broken. You start standing with the right hand on the obvious sidepull flake and the left hand on an undercling. A few tricky moves on sloping crystals leads to better holds and the top out. I thought this climb was going to be pretty cool but it ended up being so so as the cool starting moves are over way too soon.Probably around v7/8.

The sit will still go, but it's going to be a little bit harder than before and revolves around a very low percentage starting move. I tried it a bit and was in the vicinity of sticking it, but I lost interest pretty quickly as it's not that much fun. Oct 19, 2015
jedidiah  
 
Hmmm
ill have to try it again this week, thats gonna be really hard.... Apr 26, 2014
unfortunately it is the right handed pinch that broke Mar 30, 2014
jedidiah  
 
so if you broke one of the crimps, i think it will be fine cause most people use the nasty right hand pinch ... if im remembering right Feb 17, 2014
Unfortunately, I was working this problem recently and broke the right hand start hold for the sit. The problem may still go without the hold, but it would be significantly harder. I left the hold there as it would be a very easy hold to glue (small flat chip) but I am not sure how other folks feel about that. Apologies for breaking it, happy to help glue it if anyone feels strongly that it should be glued. Jan 17, 2014