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Routes in La Vieja

Del Frente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sudafricana T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 841 total, 12/month
Shared By: J Med on Dec 18, 2011
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

Beautiful natural line up the North face of La Vieja, passing the intimidating roof via a layback crack on the right. Nice, steep climbing on solid orange granite.

Protection

Single rack should suffice- #5 Camalot may be useful to protect the wide crack following the crux roof section.
Chris Winter
Portland, OR
  5.10b
Chris Winter   Portland, OR
  5.10b
I'm not sure why this route is described as four pitches, because I think it is routinely climbed in 3 per Rolo's guidebook. P1 goes up the crack to a hanging gear belay under the roof. P2 turns the roof at the 6a+ crux and then goes up through the squeeze chimney and offwidth for about 30-35 meters until under the rightward flake traverse. P3 tackles the delicate traverse and then goes straight up to the summit.

It's a great route with a really cool summit. W/o a #5, the squeeze and offwidth are fairly exciting but not especially difficult. The offwidth has some face holds that can be used, although the climbing is just a bit tricky. Mar 4, 2017
John Gassel
Boston, MA
  5.10
John Gassel   Boston, MA
  5.10
A really good climb. We had the #5 BD cam and it was handy to have for the wide sections, although not necessary if you're strong at the grade.

This is a pretty burly climb. The layback is powerful and the wide section following it is some full body climbing.

The spot where we belayed after P1 (see picture) was hanging and a bit annoying. Linking P1-2 or finding a slightly different spot (lower) might be a good idea. Jan 9, 2017
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Great route! It's possible to link p1 and 2 easily with minimal rope drag. A #5 is not necessary but a #4 is nice to have. Jan 12, 2015