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Routes in La Vieja

Del Frente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sudafricana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 890 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jim Med on Dec 18, 2011
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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13 Opinions

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Description

Beautiful natural line up the North face of La Vieja, passing the intimidating roof via a layback crack on the right. Nice, steep climbing on solid orange granite.

Protection

Single rack should suffice- #5 Camalot may be useful to protect the wide crack following the crux roof section.

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Great route! It's possible to link p1 and 2 easily with minimal rope drag. A #5 is not necessary but a #4 is nice to have. Jan 12, 2015
John Gassel
Somerville, MA
  5.10
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
  5.10
A really good climb. We had the #5 BD cam and it was handy to have for the wide sections, although not necessary if you're strong at the grade.

This is a pretty burly climb. The layback is powerful and the wide section following it is some full body climbing.

The spot where we belayed after P1 (see picture) was hanging and a bit annoying. Linking P1-2 or finding a slightly different spot (lower) might be a good idea. Jan 9, 2017
Chris Winter
Portland, OR
  5.10b
Chris Winter   Portland, OR
  5.10b
I'm not sure why this route is described as four pitches, because I think it is routinely climbed in 3 per Rolo's guidebook. P1 goes up the crack to a hanging gear belay under the roof. P2 turns the roof at the 6a+ crux and then goes up through the squeeze chimney and offwidth for about 30-35 meters until under the rightward flake traverse. P3 tackles the delicate traverse and then goes straight up to the summit.

It's a great route with a really cool summit. W/o a #5, the squeeze and offwidth are fairly exciting but not especially difficult. The offwidth has some face holds that can be used, although the climbing is just a bit tricky. Mar 4, 2017

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