The Estwing Arete
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Eric Salmi, Craig Martin, Tyler Phillips, Julia Salmi 2008 FFA: Eric Salmi |
Page Views: | 947 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Craig Martin on Dec 17, 2011 |
Admins: | Jim Clarke, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area
Details
See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.
See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.
Description
Established in 2008 in ground-up style with no bolts. Although the experience was very satisfying, the end product was a poorly protected route that none of us wanted to climb again. Subsequent ascents have seen the addition of several lead bolts as well as anchor bolts making for a fun and well protected climb in a very exposed position. It is often windy in this area.
Pitch 1: Begin off a boulder at the base of the route. Climb up and left following 3 bolts and into a right facing corner. Climb this corner up to a small roof and hand traverse to the right back to the arête. Jam up the short but wildly exposed hand and fist crack to a small belay ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 5.10-, 80'.
Pitch 2: Climb up the hand crack in the steep corner system to the right of the belay. At the top of this corner make some moves to the left and gain a large ledge system. Ramble up the ledges to their highest point and locate a bolt on the wall above. Climb up passing a roof on its right side and negotiate some easy climbing on less than stellar rock. Belay on a large ledge. 5.10-, 100'.
Pitch 3: Gain the obvious ledge by climbing past 2 fixed pins, ascend the headwall via the right most crack system leading to the summit. Pumpy and exposed climbing with a bit of grittiness. 5.11-, 90.
Rappel the route or climb one more crappy pitch and walk off down the Hayden Couloir.
Pitch 1: Begin off a boulder at the base of the route. Climb up and left following 3 bolts and into a right facing corner. Climb this corner up to a small roof and hand traverse to the right back to the arête. Jam up the short but wildly exposed hand and fist crack to a small belay ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 5.10-, 80'.
Pitch 2: Climb up the hand crack in the steep corner system to the right of the belay. At the top of this corner make some moves to the left and gain a large ledge system. Ramble up the ledges to their highest point and locate a bolt on the wall above. Climb up passing a roof on its right side and negotiate some easy climbing on less than stellar rock. Belay on a large ledge. 5.10-, 100'.
Pitch 3: Gain the obvious ledge by climbing past 2 fixed pins, ascend the headwall via the right most crack system leading to the summit. Pumpy and exposed climbing with a bit of grittiness. 5.11-, 90.
Rappel the route or climb one more crappy pitch and walk off down the Hayden Couloir.
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