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Routes in The Sports Wall

Balkan Dirt Diving T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beginner Sports T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Changing Corners Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coffin Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Generation Gap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Happiness of Pursuit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
My Generation S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Number 5 Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pet Semetary T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rufus' Roof Variation aka Climbing Sports T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabtastic T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Hill, Peavy, Peters
Page Views: 1,598 total, 22/month
Shared By: Adam Peters on Dec 16, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start the same as Generation Gap and climb to the ledge just after the third bolt. Step right onto the face and continue to climb for 4 more bolts through the triple tiered roof. Strenuous last clip and surmounting the lip leads to easier climbing and the chains on Balkan Dirt Diving.

Location

Use the same the start as for Generation Gap, but climb the more obvious straight up variation after the no hands ledge.

Protection

7 bolts and chain anchors. If you really wanted, you could bring a piece of gear for the runout 5.9 at the top.

Photos

Pinklebear
  5.12c
Pinklebear  
  5.12c
I clipped off the left undercling under the lip -- very quickly -- then snagged up to the crimp with my right hand and just punched it into the crux. Jan 4, 2017
Mike McKinnon
Golden, CO
Mike McKinnon   Golden, CO
The crux is the clip. How are people making this clip? Any beta? I am thinking of skipping it and placing a piece in the horizontal crack above with a long sling. This and Mighty Dog are both crux clips for me. Jan 2, 2017
The second to last bolt has been replaced. Feb 9, 2014
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
This is a fantastic addition to this wall! Thanks, guys. Feb 8, 2014
SteveZ
Denver, CO
  5.12c
SteveZ   Denver, CO
  5.12c
Looks like there is a bolt to link the beginning of Balkan into this for two cruxes. Shouldn't really change the overall grade though as you have the no hands rest to recover.

Fun route! Jan 7, 2013
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Nice, Kevin! Glad someone finally commented on this thing. We thought the climbing turned out to be really good, and yes, that last clip is pretty difficult. Hope you get back out and do it! Apr 20, 2012
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.12c
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.12c
I got on this thing today and found it to be a really cool rock climb. All the climbing on the second half is so cool! The crux for me was clipping the last bolt. It's hard to clip mid-crux, at the top of the route, when you're a little pumped, and can't find good feet to take a hand off and clip. Maybe that's the thrill.... The climbing itself is 3 stars and definitely worth the effort. Thanks for putting in this addition! Apr 16, 2012
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
Isn't that a song from the late '90s by TLC? I only know this, because I had a teenage daughter when that song came out. Dec 16, 2011
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Nice, fellas!! I would love to know how you came up with the name. ;) Dec 16, 2011