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Routes in Gunung Buros: White Magic Wall

Cleaning Lady S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Evil Chimney S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Jug Party S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ow! Ow! S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roof Tube, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Noh Mhammad (July 2011)
Page Views: 137 total, 2/month
Shared By: Glen Charnoski on Dec 15, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball

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Will have to park near some houses and walk thru a pepper field. No issues as of now to access wall but smile and dont walk on the crops. Details

Description

Interesting and unusual climbing on limestone. Harder than it looks. Climb/stem up a few meters into the obvious chimney, which is open at the bottom. Chimney along horizontally out to the main face while it gets tighter. When you feel stuck move out of the chimney/offwidth into the overhanging wall. Climb the crack and later face to the anchor. It is a good idea to clip stick the first bolt as the first meters are of lower rock quality.

Location

The route starts in the middle of the wall up dubious rock into the obvious overhanging dark chimney. Stick clip first bolt as leading is dangerous from loose rock. Could get stuck in chimney too.

Protection

8 new bolts. 2 bolt anchor.

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