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Routes in E Wall (aka F & part of G Faces)

Army of Ants V5+ 6C+
Barbara TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Traverse TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Double Traverse Straight Up TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Luna TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Savage Direct TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Savage Place TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sigma TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 61 total, 1/month
Shared By: dragons on Dec 12, 2011
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

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Description

This is a pretty sheer, vertical climb. The holds are thin, inconveniently placed, and hard to find. I found the crux to be about 5 feet below the top, which I found impossible to reach today.

Location

From the bottom of E Wall, locate the giant flake which is the upper part of Double Traverse. Now move your eyes to the right. You'll see the highest part of the top ledge, followed by a small dip (not to be confused with the large dip even further right, which is the end of Apollo). Luna ends at the small dip, and starts about 15 feet below in a long, horizontal crack.

To get to that horizontal crack, climb up from the water's edge to a broad ledge (10+ feet wide). It's a fairly easy scramble, diagonally right, from here to the start.

Protection

Top rope. There are a few large boulders perched near the edge, about 10 feet back, and some sturdy trees further back (20+ feet or so). There's a small dying tree near the ledge which I was afraid to use.

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