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Routes in E Wall (aka F & part of G Faces)

Army of Ants V5+ 6C+
Barbara TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Traverse TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Double Traverse Straight Up TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Luna TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Savage Direct TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Savage Place TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sigma TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 318 total, 4/month
Shared By: dragons on Dec 12, 2011
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

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Description

This is just right of Savage Place on E Wall. From the wide ledge where the route starts, go up and a little to the right. When you reach the ledge where Savage Place follows a thick flake, go up to the right of that flake, which is off-route. There's a thin flake nearby which appears to be legal. You'll have to look around carefully for holds.

Boston Rocks guide gives Savage Direct a grade of 5.9. Either I'm doing it wrong, or it's just not comparable to other 5.9s at Quincy. It's more like a Quincy 5.7+.

Location

This route is right of Savage Place, which is the left-most route on E Wall. To get to the bottom of the route, climb up from the water's edge to a broad ledge (10+ feet wide). The route starts here, near the left corner.

Protection

One bolt at the top near the edge and a small sturdy tree about 10 feet back from the bolt. You can climb Savage Direct and Savage Place using the same anchor.

Photos

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john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
I think you may be getting some other holds involved, Dragon. SD is pretty thin and the crux involves a bit of a pop move to a pocket just below the top. Quarries 5.9.
I fell off this move, soloing, when the pocket was full of water. Not good, I went all the way down to the ledge at the bottom. Dec 13, 2011