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Tuna Fish is Ludacris

5.13c, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 1.5 from 4 votes
FA: Joe Kinder
New Hampshire > Rumney > Waimea

Description

This is the direct start to Maui Wowie, coming directly out from deep in the cave. Unfortunately, it was unknowingly bolted in an unusually dry year and because of it's usual seep, is rarely in condition. From the back, work your way out the fun horizontal roof on mostly good flakes to a hard, bouldery lip sequence that includes slaps and drop knees to a big throw. Get yourself established in the Maui corner, get a shake and continue on up on easier climbing.

You will want a good, quick and attentive belayer for this route, preferably heavier than you to keep you off the ground while making quick clips. I played Atlas and moved about a dump truck of rocks from under the base (which turned into the trail) to lower it, but it is still pretty close. Also, some of the flake's connections to the ceiling may be a little dubious and have been reinforced. Avoid climbing on them if they are damp. With all that, if you can catch it when it is dry, it is a really fun, bouldery route.

Cleaned and bolted by me, but Joe Kinder snagged the FA, the bastard :)

Location

When you come up the approach trail from below, turn and walk about 50 left at the cliff. Look for the deepest "cave like" part of the low roof. It is just right of the Urban Surfer and Barracuda starts.

Protection

Eyebolts and anchor. A bouldering pad in key spots may not be a bad idea if it is handy.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

M Sprague
New England
  5.13c
[Hide Comment] If this was a boulder problem and all nice and dry, it would be worth 4 stars for the moves, but as a route it is a little short and inconsistent. Plus it is surrounded by such great competition. Dec 12, 2011
Troy Fauteux
Henniker, NH
 
[Hide Comment] I've been wanting to try this route for a while now but never found it dry until today. I didn't realize the flake above the 2nd bolt had broke off last year? And unfortunately I wasn't able to figure out a reasonable sequence around the broken hold. I bet it still goes but its going to be much harder and way less fun. It's basically just the 3rd, 4th, and 5th moves that were effected all though I never tried it before the break. Otherwise I thought it was super fun to work. Wish it hadn't broke or I'd completely agree with Mark! Sep 4, 2022