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Routes in Beardsley Boulders

Anarchy Crack T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Asscrack, The V0 4
Assorted Goods V0-1 4+
Beer Belly V0+ 4+
Bill’s Problem V6 7A
Brown Sugar S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classic Orange V0 4
Das Boot V6-7 7A+
Double Clutch V3 6A
Fear of Having Sex with Dead People, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fingertip Mantle V4-5 6B+
Flake, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frosted Flakes V1 5
Grandma got run over by a raindeer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hamstring V1+ 5
Hot Sweaty Buns S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mantle Puss V1 5
Monkey Lust V3 6A
Monkey Lust Right V0-1 4+
Mr. Mantle V1-2 5
Naked Bimbos from Mars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pencil Thin V6-7 7A+
Pencil Thin Flake V5 6C
Pencil Thin, Right Arete V4 6B
Perforator right V2 5+
Prow, The V3 6A
Sharpie V2 5+
Short N' Easy V0- 4-
Spank Your Monkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Teenage Enema Nurses in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unnamed V3 TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Virgin, The V0 4
Whales Back V0 4
Wiley Left V0 4
Wiley Right V0- 4-
Wolf Jr. V1-2 5
gripper, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jim Guadnola/Bob Blair 12/1990
Page Views: 1,191 total, 16/month
Shared By: Scott Frankel on Dec 11, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This route used to be rated 5.6, but some holds on the start have broken off during the years. Now the start is 5.7, perhaps even 5.8. Easier 5.6 face climbing after the start. This climb alternates from good hands/no feet to good feet/no hands.

Location

This is the bolted route furthest on the left on the 'Fear Rock' formation. This climb is to the right of the crack climb 'Naked Bimbos from Mars (5.7)'. The approach to 'Fear Rock' is not trivial. Expect about 20 minutes of boulder hopping.

Protection

Four bolts to a single bolt rappel or walk off. Looks like there used to be two bolts at the top, but only one survives now.

Photos

AnthonyBroich
  5.6
AnthonyBroich  
  5.6
Fun route. Two bolts on top makes for a great top rope. Sep 17, 2017
William Nelson
Cave Creek, AZ
  5.6
William Nelson   Cave Creek, AZ
  5.6
This is great route. First few moves are 5.7, then eases off to 5.5 or easier. Bring couple wired nuts to tie off "naked bolt anchor at top. Either that or slot couple metolius master cams 00, 0, or 1 in shallow crack on right side. Dec 9, 2012