Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jim Guadnola/Bob Blair 12/1990
Page Views: 1,400 total · 16/month
Shared By: Scott Frankel on Dec 11, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

This route used to be rated 5.6, but some holds on the start have broken off during the years. Now the start is 5.7, perhaps even 5.8. Easier 5.6 face climbing after the start. This climb alternates from good hands/no feet to good feet/no hands.

Location

This is the bolted route furthest on the left on the 'Fear Rock' formation. This climb is to the right of the crack climb 'Naked Bimbos from Mars (5.7)'. The approach to 'Fear Rock' is not trivial. Expect about 20 minutes of boulder hopping.

Protection

Four bolts to a single bolt rappel or walk off. Looks like there used to be two bolts at the top, but only one survives now.

Photos

William Nelson
Cave Creek, AZ
  5.6
William Nelson   Cave Creek, AZ
  5.6
This is great route. First few moves are 5.7, then eases off to 5.5 or easier. Bring couple wired nuts to tie off "naked bolt anchor at top. Either that or slot couple metolius master cams 00, 0, or 1 in shallow crack on right side. Dec 9, 2012
AnthonyBroich
  5.6
AnthonyBroich  
  5.6
Fun route. Two bolts on top makes for a great top rope. Sep 17, 2017