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Routes in Beardsley Boulders

Anarchy Crack T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Asscrack, The V0 4
Assorted Goods V0-1 4+
Beer Belly V0+ 4+
Brown Sugar S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classic Orange V0 4
Double Clutch V3 6A
Fear of Having Sex with Dead People, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fingertip Mantle V4-5 6B+
Flake, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frosted Flakes V1 5
Grandma got run over by a raindeer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hamstring V1+ 5
Hot Sweaty Buns S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mantle Puss V1 5
Monkey Lust V3 6A
Monkey Lust Right V0-1 4+
Mr. Mantle V1-2 5
Naked Bimbos from Mars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pencil Thin V6-7 7A+
Pencil Thin Flake V5 6C
Pencil Thin, Right Arete V4 6B
Perforator right V2 5+
Prow, The V3 6A
Sharpie V2 5+
Short N' Easy V0- 4-
Spank Your Monkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Teenage Enema Nurses in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unnamed V3 TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Virgin, The V0 4
Whales Back V0 4
Wiley Left V0 4
Wiley Right V0- 4-
Wolf Jr. V1-2 5
gripper, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bob Blair/Andy Linker 3/1985
Page Views: 1,205 total, 17/month
Shared By: Scott Frankel on Dec 11, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Difficult start leads to easier climbing the closer you get to the top. About midway up the route, the crack gets wide enough for your fingers.

Location

This is the leftmost crack on Fear Rock. It's the crack to the left of the bolted route 'Brown Sugar (5.6)'. The approach to 'Fear Rock' is not trivial. Expect 20 minutes of boulder hopping and scrambling to get there.

Protection

Small to medium pro. Use single bolt to rappel or walk off. It looks like there used to be two bolts on the top, but there's only one surviving now.

Photos

William Nelson
Cave Creek, AZ
  5.7
William Nelson   Cave Creek, AZ
  5.7
Really fun with some 5.7 moves. Wish this was a 180 foot pitch Dec 9, 2012