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Float Like a Butterfly
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1.4 from 5
votes
Routes in R Wall (aka P Face)
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Bench TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bench Direct TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Circumflex TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cloudburst TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Float Like a Butterfly TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gary's Scramble T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Greg's Traverse TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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One Hundred in the Shade TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Reverberation TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Ron's Arete T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Seagull T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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| Type: | TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 819 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | dragons on Dec 9, 2011 |
| Admins: | Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
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Details
Description
The route goes straight up. The first 20 feet or so is pretty smooth slab, although it's not horribly steep. Climbing this slab is the crux. Above that are giant blocks that you can easily clamber up to get to the anchor.
The good part is that there are a few features on the slab that you can lock onto. The bad part is that there's graffiti at the bottom, making it a little tough to get off the ground.
The good part is that there are a few features on the slab that you can lock onto. The bad part is that there's graffiti at the bottom, making it a little tough to get off the ground.
Location
The route is identified as the left-most route on R Wall in Boston Rocks guide. If you come into the quarry and walk towards Knight's Wall, it's to the left, around the corner.
If you walk around R Wall, you'll see a large block jutting up, with a bent pipe about 20 feet to the right of it. This route goes straight up towards that tall jutting block. Currently, the route follows some light green paint drizzled down from some blocks that are below that above-mentioned jutting block. There's a "Kilroy Was Here" graffiti slightly to the left of the start. See attached photo.
If you walk around R Wall, you'll see a large block jutting up, with a bent pipe about 20 feet to the right of it. This route goes straight up towards that tall jutting block. Currently, the route follows some light green paint drizzled down from some blocks that are below that above-mentioned jutting block. There's a "Kilroy Was Here" graffiti slightly to the left of the start. See attached photo.
Protection
There's a sturdy metal staple at the top, close to the edge (5-10 feet away). There are also several metal pipes sticking up further back which can be used for anchors (20 feet away).
It looked like my slings would get abraded when hanging over the edge, because they tended to slip into a tight, rough crack between the rocks. I pushed a scrap of sling down in the crack to prevent this from happening.
It looked like my slings would get abraded when hanging over the edge, because they tended to slip into a tight, rough crack between the rocks. I pushed a scrap of sling down in the crack to prevent this from happening.
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