All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Grand County > Fisher Towers > Cottontail Tower

Trick of the Tail

Name: Trick of the Tail
Rating: 4.0

5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British A3+

Routes in Cottontail Tower

	Brer Rabbit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C3+ R
	Free Gaza T A4+ R
	Intifada T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A5 X
	Trick of the Tail T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+
	West Side Story 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3

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Type:	Trad, Aid, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV
GPS:	38.71965, -109.30256
FA:	Jeremy Aslaksen & Paul Gagner
Page Views:	3,288 total · 19/month
Shared By:	Jeremy Aslaksen on Dec 9, 2011
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Trick of the Tail

The route pretty much starts about 100 feet right of the start of West Side Story. You will be able to see 1 bolt about 20 feet off the deck.

Head up following good cracks till you eventually hit Road Kill. At the top of the initial Road Kill pillar, climb road kill for 20 feet or so (clipping a Road Kill bolt) and start working right.

Eventually you will surmount a roof and belay. Head right on 5.10++ no hold slab climbing to a bolt (possible 40 footer over the roof and onto the belay) keep heading right (beaks) to another bolt and then cruise to the shoulder via the pretty good crack system (bolts here and there).

Once at the shoulder, cruise around the backside (Intifada) of Cottontail and climb the last pitch of WSS to the summit.

Rack:

12 - #1 Peckers
20 - #2 Peckers
10 - #3 Peckers
2 - Specters
3 sets small cams/offset cams
3 sets Camalots .5 to 3
2 sets Camalots 3.5 to 4
1 - 4.5 Camalot
Free shoes for pitch 4