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Routes in Cottontail Tower

Brer Rabbit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A3+ R
Free Gaza T A4+ R
Intifada 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A5 X
Trick of the Tail T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+
West Side Story 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
Type: Trad, Aid, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Jeremy Aslaksen & Paul Gagner
Page Views: 1,709 total · 23/month
Shared By: Jeremy Aslaksen on Dec 9, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Trick of the Tail

The route pretty much starts about 100 feet right of the start of West Side Story. You will be able to see 1 bolt about 20 feet off the deck.

Head up following good cracks till you eventually hit Road Kill. At the top of the initial Road Kill pillar, climb road kill for 20 feet or so (clipping a Road Kill bolt) and start working right.

Eventually you will surmount a roof and belay. Head right on 5.10++ no hold slab climbing to a bolt (possible 40 footer over the roof and onto the belay) keep heading right (beaks) to another bolt and then cruise to the shoulder via the pretty good crack system (bolts here and there).

Once at the shoulder, cruise around the backside (Intifada) of Cottontail and climb the last pitch of WSS to the summit.


Rack:

12 - #1 Peckers
20 - #2 Peckers
10 - #3 Peckers
2 - Specters
3 sets small cams/offset cams
3 sets Camalots .5 to 3
2 sets Camalots 3.5 to 4
1 - 4.5 Camalot
Free shoes for pitch 4

Photos

Actually there's only one bolt 20 feet off the ground.

Great route - great partner - fun Fisher adventure!!

Paul Dec 31, 2011
Thank you. Looks interesting. Nicely done!

Above comments deleted. Dec 17, 2011

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