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Routes in Apron Boulders

A Kiss After Climbing V0- 4-
Anaconda V1 5
Asphalt Jungle, The V0- 4-
Bad Bush V0 4
Boot, The V0+ 4+
Cobra V1 5
Communication Breakdown V0 4
Constrictor V1 5
Cutting Edge, The V4 6B
Drive-by Hand Crack V0 4
ET V0- 4-
Gibb's Cave V8 7B
Good Bush V0 4
Ground Zero V0+ 4+
Gull Skull V6 7A
Iron Palm V7-8 7B
Lizard Skull V1 5
Outhouse Arete V0- 4-
Peters Face V1 5
Potato Gun V0 4
Ramen Raw V7 7A+
Reach the Beach V1+ 5
Reptile Slab V1 5
Shots Fired V4 6B
Sickle, The V3 6A
Spring Thaw V0 4
Stinky V0- 4-
Tatonka V8 7B
This Monkey's Gone to Heaven V7+ 7A+
Trooper Traverse V0 4
V0 V0 4
Venom ArĂȘte V1 5
alien within V3 6A
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,295 total, 18/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Dec 9, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Big moves on decent edges up a slightly overhanging wall. The landing is a bit scary!


Protection

As many crash pads and spotters as you can get.

Photos

Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  V7+
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  V7+
There's a few different variations for how to do this thing. The first is to use the lower (incut) undercling while keeping your feet low and sort of windmill-style deadpoint the high crimp - I think my left foot wound up in a smeared position when I did it this way (years ago). The second is to bump to the higher but worse undercling and rotate static to the crimp. Keep your feet low if you are real tall or use the higher feet if you are real short (in between folks like me are sort of forced to improvise a bit hence the dyno). I found I could only do it the first way but be warned - the deadpoint feels out of control and when you hit the crimp its possible you will rotate off in a weird way in the direction of the talus! I did it once and could never repeat it in later years ironically. It felt like a 1 in 100 deadpoint. Sep 8, 2013