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Bourbon Street
5.10a/b,
Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches,
Avg: 3.1 from 39
votes
FA: Gary Allen, Malcolm Jolly 1977
California
> Lake Tahoe
> I-80 Corridor
> Donner Summit
> Black Wall
> 1. Black Wall - Left
Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures
Details
Mind nesting raptors that raise young on the Black Wall some years. If you sight a peregrine, contact Dan Joannes, staff biology guy for the Truckee Donner Land Trust at Daniel@tdlandtrust.org
Description
Pitch 1 and 2: Climb the chimney like feature and cracks to left of the Rat's Tooth. I believe the first pitch was 5.6 or 5.7 and the second pitch had some 5.8 like moves ending on a nice ledge on the left side of the large gulley. In an older guidebook they called these two pitches "Inner Recess" (I actually prefer to climb the 5.10 pitch of Rat's tooth, and the beginning of the 2nd pitch of Touch and go to get to the anchor)
Pitch 3 (The Money Pitch): From the ledge climb straight up the chimney and head right over a couple of bulges and a roof to reach the main corner. Climb up the corner between two roofs and around to the right of the 2nd roof at the top of the corner ending at Lizard Ledge.
Protection
Single to 3" w/ doubles in fingers and nuts.
Reno, NV
Edit July 2013: someone has put some serious time into cleaning this thing. The crack now takes great gear as most is the areas that were once filled with dirt and moss are now clean finger sized crack. The middle section has seen flakes and the like cleaned out, so where there was once flaring gear there are now some solid cams. There is still no gear for about 6' to the roof, but this thing is now super safe. Even the comment in the new locals guide about gear popping out of flaring cracks is misplaced. While it climbs great right now, I will say it seemed far easier and the original spice is gone. I had no idea how dirty this thing was back in 2004. Dec 7, 2011
Truckee, CA
This whole area is a little confusing when going up there for the first time, with so many climbs in such close proximity... :) The chimney is full of bird shit and feathers as of September 2013, so there seems to be active nesting in the spring time, as indicated. Sep 9, 2013
Truckee, CA
South Lake Tahoe
An offset index finger size, is good a few feet before the roof. Save a green metolius/#1 camalot and a purple metolius/#3 camalot for under the roof. The climb and pro looks intimidating but it's just 5.9+. Jun 16, 2018