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Routes in 9 Wall (Feather Ledges)

Butt-hurt Yankee, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Glad I'm Not High T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gray Matter S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Just Say Yes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
One Hard Move TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V4 6B
One step forward T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pipe Dreams T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rad Trad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Rusty Oldtimer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
TBD T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Hard Moves TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 878 total, 12/month
Shared By: T Roper on Dec 7, 2011
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

This climb is a bit longer than One Step Forward since the beginning is a diagonal crack and the finish zigs off to the right(crux), then left at the end to the shared anchor. Slightly contrived to keep the grade at 5.9, if you end up finishing One Step Forward the grade is 5.7.

Location

Starts 30 feet right(officially) of One Step Forward near the stone fence in the diagonal crack.

Protection

two bolts. gear can be used to get to the first bolt and gear can be used to finish the climb(.75-#1) but is not necessary.

Photos

John K. Parejko
New Haven, CT
John K. Parejko   New Haven, CT
WARNING: anchor bolts have been smashed. It will be very difficult to get a carabiner behind them to clip.

Update: the bolts were replaced (big thanks to whoever did that!), and all is well. Aug 6, 2014
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
Nice lead, with thin slab move after 2nd bolt. Short, but fun! May 5, 2013